I hi for any one who might have one of these GRID TIE INVERTER with limiter and battery input. if for some reason you see that no power is being detected
EXAMPLE:
you will need to change some capacitors
2pcs- 220uf 16v
1pc- 470uf 25v (optional)
2pcs- 10uf 400v (optional)
these capacitors are found under the small controller board.
I only needed to replace 200uf 16v ones right beside the tiny transformer . the inverter will work properly after that… or if not you will also need to change the optional capacitors in the that area , as this is the power sampling area of the board. these were the capacitor that were suggested for me to change by an inverter repair group
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Hi thats good INfol to no. I have a new one’ and on the Display when I got it said Sun-1000GTIL2-wal-wifi-LCD and now it say Sun-600G and will not work I am thanking a bad Control Board
when you look at the lcd do all your sensor show zero- temperature ac voltage and dc voltage . plus if you scroll to the sin wave display does it show a flat line… then it was 220uf 16v for me. if it was the control board i was told when you open it up and have it plugged in there a blue led on the main board would not light up. as that light is for diagnostic and the controller OS has fully booted… the blue light is opposite end of from the little controller board on my inverter
HI thank you for Reply’ It tells Tem. and AC & dc and has sin wave and has the Blue light
that seams weird so everything works but your firmware seams to have changed from 1000gtl2 → 600G – if you have facebook account try going to and joining – gtil group.-- it is a sun inverter repair group they will provide information for differing problems related to these inverters
Yes it is; under where it says 600G has 10v to 30v I input 13.5 and it reads that but no watts stay the same if I put any thank over 30v it will say over vot wich should 22v -60v. On the Display I use’t set dump load that gone and on the and the Icon had a wind mill and has a solar So maybe OS I was looking foa reset on it I may chage these parts such to see Any thanks I wll try gtil group
try that
if not join this group
https://www.facebook.com/groups/958155904321773
from the group –
Reheat/ re solder with soldering iron R6, R7, R8, R9, they are under right cooling fan. There was a manufacturing issue with those resistors, they are drawing moisture.
Hello everyone,
I read your posts here and tried to fix my SUN-2000G-WAL which is working with a wind turbine. Till now, I had no success. The inverter is not respecting the programmed power curve (power curve can be programmed in the menu of the WAL version).
It worked for a couple of months fine, so I assume a hardware defect.
As soon as the DC input voltage is reaching 45V or higher it is consuming all the power with maximum possible current, even when I set in the power curve settings to start with 0.1A at 48V, 0.2A at 50V …
I have changed the mentioned capacitors from post 1 already and i tried also to supply the logic part of the inverter with external DC power (3,3V and 12V from a laboratory power supply) same behaviour.
Does anyone have some additional suggestions? The link to the Facebook group in the post above is not working. Is this group still active?
Thanks in advance for every support.
Martin
Thanks stephen
hi @offgrid8 did you solve this issue? My GTIL2 has done similar and display has changed to say same “10-30V” as you report and doesnt work with my solar setup expecting the 45-90V range of the GTIL2 previously – I’ve no idea what caused it to change this display…almost like the firmware got reset to a different model and I see no way to reset it back.
I never had that issue but I remember there being a software method of changing the version I ran across it one day it on youtube or at least there was . you enter into firmware base setting and it gave you a list and you could select them it gave you a list of 4 or 5 different types and you could select - if I remember right you had to hold two buttons for 10 seconds then it would enter into a debug mode and you could only enter into the debug mode when you were on the usage graph I believe . but this was a while ago and it a little foggy - but hopefully the video still on youtube – oh yeah the solar power had to be disconnected as well
many thanks.
I found a video here: GTIL2 Inverter Profile Troubleshooting Guide - YouTube titled “GTIL2 Inverter Profile Troubleshooting Guide” and those instructions were just to hold top 2 buttons down at AC power start up
…that jumps into a new menu called “Final Assembly Code” where you can choose settings corresponding to your hardware config and in my case it was not set to 40-90V value - in fact my bad settings were all the base value in each group so I guess somehow my firmware settings got “zero’d” out when it stop working for me.
Now with correct settings, waiting till morning to see if it fixes it when the sun’s up
Thanks again for the clues to find that video.
glad you found it - it was probably a couple years ago when I saw the video. I see I sort of remembered the how to do it LOL… and hopefully it works for you …
Hello MartinZ,
I red your post regarding Sun-2000G-WAL which is working with a wind turbine. I red, your inverter did not working properly. Did you have success with the repair? I have maybe a similar problem. I have installed a SUN-1000G2-WAL inverter to a small wind turbine. The wind turbine delivers 3 phase AC power up to 48 V. The inverter has a input voltage 22V - 60V. But the inverter did not start to deliver electrical power into the grid. Did you can get somen hints?
Thanks in advance for every support
H. Walter
the question was not directed at me, but I had some Sun-2000G-WAL die several times, just fix one a month ago , they usually pretty easy to fix… not sure if your have the 4 led on them to tell when it working as mine does - red, green,green, green ( the speed of the cycle through the greens, indicates how much output) or the one with the LCD . but if it has the LED here a basic diagnostics .
if there no wind and and there no red light the issue on the AC side. if there wind and it on then it usually on the DC side.
it usually the little fuse that popped on the AC side but once it was the triac .
if it red with the ac and wind. then it can be several things . usually it the rectifying bridge has shorted. ( the big diode that the 3 phases connects too.) test and replace if shorted … if it red and the dump load is hot then the relay has welded closed . and you have to replace that ( you also hear is clicking on and off when you plug and unplug the AC power) . the last is the ICs. if you have a ohm meter with diode function that beeps just test the legs on each ICs against the the other leg on that IC (the one mounted to the box for cooling ) if they beep then one or more have shorted you need the replace that bank of with the same ICs . the last issue I had, was the large capacitors. if they are are leaking then you have to replace them. they are hard to find that are exactly the same physical size. but the smaller ones worked fine - hope that helps you a little bit and you get it working again
Hi
New to the forum, sorry to jump in on this thread but I am having an issue with one of these, I have checked what I can without dismantling, fuses any obvious signs of blown components but nothing.
It powers up and sits there waiting for power, it says ‘starting voltage too low’ , everything else is as it should be, but when I apply a power source to it, the inverter does not see it, interestingly when I put a meter across the inputs it doesnt show any voltage but if I disconnect the power source and test it the voltage is correct??
Does anyone have any ideas?
Many thanks
I have one of these units but I cant get it to show any watts .
The volts over around 20 to 30 volts but have hit a high of 50 volts but all paramters are “0” all execpt V1 that shows the varing voltage ???
Can you help .
Is there a setting I need to change ( capasitor discarge ?? )
I have the same problem