I do now have the app up and running as installed the gateway yesterday. I also plugged in the wireless sensocomfort thinking the setting would be saved somewhere in the system but no, so I unplugged it and put the wired one back in to see if there was a way to transfer between them, but no. I’ll swap them when I’ve recorded settings on PAPER! And have time to re set up - beyond unacceptable to not have a transfer settings or save setting somehow.
The app seems OK. Quite simple but that’s good for general population. Shame not more information in system status and flow temp seems off, plus water pressure is different everywhere. Anyway, it seems I’ll need to set up the ebus usb thing I bought to get better data recorded.
Shame the software is so bad when the hardware is so good.
I’ve got my VaillantConnect talking to home assistant, and I’ve noticed over the last few days it has started only updating home assistant every three hours… I haven’t changed anything… anyone else noticed a change in the frequency for data?
API’s cost money to run, cloud services aren’t cheap.
They really don’t want third party apps and add-ons overdoing the frequent polling.
Tado are bringing in some sort of paid higher tier for those users that want more frequent data pulls. You can sort of see why and i’d expect other manufacturers to follow suit.
Reduce the base API to minimal pulls per day. Then you pay if you want more.
What makes you say that the “flow temp is off” and “water pressure is different”?
The app, and gateway, just read those values directly from the main VWZ AI controller, as does the SensoComfort unit. The values should be consistent between all of these.
I have Home Assistant but have not yet considered implementing any control of my Vaillant.
Hot Water is on Time Controlled mode.
The cylinder charging hysteresis was increased to 10K as I understand the heat pump will be more efficient when heating the water from a lower temperature, so my aim was to have it only kick in on the schedules I have defined when the temperature has dropped more significantly. The myenergi eddi does a good job of topping it up from excess solar.
The VF1 temperature prope was plugged in and stuck in a shit place to get a real temperature. I’m roasting as it’s totally over shot the desired flow temp. Ive unplugged this. I wonder if it was reading this temp on the app before, hence the difference.
Target flow is 27.5 and it got up to 35.
Hopefully with this unplugged (I read it causes issues) I’ll be able to dial it in.
I have a Vaillant 7kw aro plus and want 21c during the day and 19 at night. But during night setback is there a way to have it not run the circulation pump until the house drops to 19 at which point it brings both the circulation and comp on?
Senso is on inactive at the moment as still dialling things in. But even on cold nights the house rarely get down to setback, yet the circulator is running 24/7 and it makes a soft rumbling noise in my sons room/kitchen as the primaries go through the house, also a bit of vibration but barely detectable.
Also the rumbling is just from the circulation pump as I’ve also got a humming sometimes from the compressor that can be heard when it ramps up, that’s another problem which I think most know about on the 7kw model.
Is it the pump in the machine or a secondary pump? Is the pump set to auto? Ours will run even when heating isn’t heating to disperse the heat in pipes around system to keep it warm. I haven’t see a setting to allow you to turn the pump off, that could be scheduled. I’d come at it another way.
We used to have issue with noise from a pump on our wood boiler due to transfer, it was isolated and the noise was a lot better. Rubber feet on machine, maybe flexis, if it’s copper direct.
Can you insulate the primaries? Or decouple them? Maybe the supporters are screwed into the beams etc.
All of our pipework is exposed (except primaries as they’re in the barn), and we have very little noise in pipes from the ashp now.
When in ‘inactive’ mode the heat pump is operating in pure WC. Adjusting the set temp (eg for setback) shifts the WC curve, but otherwise has no effect. There is logic to this, it’s a way to provide a familiar interface to a less knowledgeable end user whilst maintaining the efficiency benefits of WC.
This means that, unless it is cycling and cycles off, the water pump will run.
If you switch to expanded mode the heat pump will switch off altogether until the house temperature falls. This should also switch off the water pump (certainly it does on mine). Your efficiency may suffer a bit however by doing this.
If you want sleeping areas cooler it’s generally better to turn down the lock shields in those areas a bit, until the room settles at the right temperature. My bedrooms are permanently a couple of degrees cooler than the living rooms and I don’t bother with setback.
No secondary pump just the one in the unit. It’s the random nature of the noise that I can’t figure, like the waters cavitation inside the pipes? Maybe it’s where some joints are soldered and it’s has some solder inside the fitting?
Is it definitely the primaries? Could it be the radiators making noise due to pressure? I find if not balanced right some of my rads can make a slight noise due to the pressure of water.
. Schedule was on until 17:40 and the DHW run stopped even though target was not reached.
