The House That Couldn’t Have a Heat Pump

“An ASHP won’t work in your house.”

Solid stone, rural Scotland. Two levels and rooms in the roof, 420 m² habitable space. No wall or floor insulation. Built in 1874. Heated with a 37 kW LPG combi boiler. You’d better keep a boiler.

That was the first answer, and it was unanimous. When I pushed, the answer shifted but not in my favour: “You’d need a heat pump the size of your current boiler. 37 kW. And you’d have to rip out the pipework. And replace every radiator.” Which, translated, meant don’t bother.

I found I couldn’t quite accept that. Not out of stubbornness, but because nobody telling me this had actually properly surveyed the house. The 37 kW figure wasn’t derived from our walls, our windows, our air changes, our house geometry and location. It was derived from our existing boiler — which had itself been sized by someone doing the same thing a decade earlier. A chain of assumptions, each one rounding up for safety, ending in a number nobody had ever checked against reality.

So I started doing the sums myself. I had to learn and understand from scratch about house heating engineering and search for old Victorian houses.

The first assumption worth questioning was the U-value. Industry guidance for solid stone walls lands somewhere around 2.1 W/m²K — a figure generous enough to make any heat loss calculation look terrifying. But our walls aren’t generic solid stone. They’re whinstone rubble with sandstone dressings, roughly 600 mm thick, with lime plaster on lath on the inside. That construction behaves differently from the textbook assumption. Working through it properly — thermal conductivity of the stone, the decoupling effect of the plaster-on-lath cavity, the actual wall thickness — I got to 1.2 W/m²K. Not insulated-standard by any stretch, but not the disaster the rule of thumb suggested either.

The second assumption was air changes. Old houses leak — that’s true. But how much they leak is a measurable property, not a folk belief, and the default of 1.0 ACH or higher gets applied to buildings it has no business being applied to. Our house has had its windows done, its chimneys sealed where they’re not in use, and isn’t drafty in the way a Victorian tenement might be. Measured and cross-checked, it sits closer to 0.5 ACH.

Two assumptions corrected, the heat demand calculation fell out differently. Not 37 kW. Not anywhere near it. 11.94 kW at design conditions. I specified a 12 kW Vaillant aroTHERM Plus. Measured peak demand a year later: 11.6 kW, inside 3% of the paper calculation.

That was the first answer to the first “no”.

The main runs pipework did need upgrading — heat pumps move twice the flow for the same heat — so I replaced the arteries with 28 mm copper myself before the installer arrived. The capillaries were fine. The radiators didn’t need replacing either; they needed to be used properly at low flow temperatures. That’s a control problem, not a hardware problem. ESP32 fan boosters on the lukewarm rooms, seventeen smart TRVs calibrated and held to a minimum opening to protect the design flow rate (~2,014 L/h), one TRV repurposed as a compensating valve.

Two “no”s down. The third one was the one the industry was least prepared to lose.

After a full heating season, measured against the same house under LPG: 68% less energy, 46% cost reduction, 57% more heat delivered, sCOP 4.21 — the numbers that tell the full story. These are meter totals, from a monitoring stack — Home Assistant, ebusd on the Vaillant’s internal bus, InfluxDB, EmonCMS — built to surface bad news as readily as good. A two-layer control architecture (coarse heat-curve adjustment plus cycle-by-cycle flow-temperature trim, derived by reverse-engineering the manufacturer’s own sensitivity formula) is what delivered those numbers.

Along the way the house became a laboratory. Heat loss coefficient: 0.540 kW/K. Fabric–ventilation split: 0.496 / 0.037 — internal insulation matters, draught-chasing does not. Air changes per hour: 0.167–0.174, derived unexpectedly from CO₂ decay curves on the upstairs air-quality monitor. Thermal mass: ~8 kWh/K, matching first-principles physics for whinstone of this thickness and density. Three numbers, three methods, cross-checked.

The three “no”s that opened this story were not the product of bad faith. The installers I spoke with were not lying, and most of them were competent. They were answering a different question than the one I was asking, which was what does our house actually need?

The house I live in now is the same house I moved into — same stones, same lath-and-plaster, same 1874 floor plan. Nothing about the fabric has fundamentally changed. What has changed is what I know about it. That accumulated knowledge is the real project. The 12 kW Vaillant is almost incidental — it’s the machine that made the investigation necessary. The investigation is what made the house tractable.

If the opening of this story was a wall of received wisdom, the end of it is the quieter observation that received wisdom is what you get when nobody has bothered to measure. You have to keep score. Eventually the score speaks for itself.

The heat pump works. The house works. The monitoring works. The laboratory is open, and it will stay open.

PS: Thank you for open energy monitor forum and the emoncms team, you have been a great source of learning.

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You can never beat measurement.

That’s brilliant :+1:

Should be on the Radio 4s Evan Davis Heat Pump Challenge programme and You and Yours - total myth buster

Well that was an impressive first post :clap:

Excellent analysis and outcome. Thanks for sharing your heat pump journey.

I also live in Rural Scotland and have an aroTherm Plus 12kw. Would you mind sharing the heat curve setting you use and the target room temperature you set in the Vaillant sensoComfort?

I have a post about our house heat curve setting * A Heat Pump That Thinks for Itself *. The post describes the heat curve and our emitters control. I would be more than happy to share the code associated with it should you need it and adapt it to your house.

Thank you for the link to your control system development.

My experience of weather effects has shown that wind has a marked effect on required heat curve settings i.e. heat loss. The concern I would have in including temperature forecasts is that the forecasters are not accurate with predicting temperature in Highland Perthshire.

Do you experience much defrosting and how does that affect your control model?

Can you advise how much electricity your heat pump uses per year?

Do you use the Vaillant for DHW and is that part of your CoP of 4.2?

I agree with you that weather forecasts are not always correct. To reduce that variability, I have generated my own Home Assistant weather forecast using the OpenMeteo API. I’d be more than happy to share my code for you to adapt to your location. It’s not perfect, but it gives me a good trend in terms of temperature, wind speed, wind direction, etc.

In terms of defrosting, for me it starts at 4.7°C and below. It can be around 8 defrost cycles per 24 hours, going up to 14 on a very humid day at 0°C.

The heat pump uses around 8,300 kWh of electricity per year for an average indoor temperature of 19.5°C. Yes, we use the heat pump for DHW, and the 4.2 includes the DHW.

Highland Perthshire tends to be much colder than Argyll and Bute, as you’re more exposed to easterly weather whereas we’re more exposed to Atlantic weather.

I am really impressed by the great work done here!

My heat pump problem is totally different. I live in coastal southern California. If I set my thermostat to 65°F (18°C) and 75°F (24°C) my heater only turns on during 4 months of the year and the air conditioner twice during the year. The rest of the time, when it is idling, it uses 2 to 3 kWh per day! Which means the heat pump is using about 60kWh/mo for no benefit.

Here’s the question. Is it bad to completely turn off the heat pump?

Yes, I know how lucky I am to have this problem. But, does one optimize one’s heat pump to save money or to mitigate climate change? I am of the latter ilk, trying to do my part. (Electric energy costs here are approaching $1/kWh during peak periods, though non-peak are “only” ~$0.60/kWh.)

My trivial problem aside, I bow in awe to @abidamr .

On the climate angle: you’re absolutely right that displacing fossil-fuel heating with a heat pump on a renewables-heavy grid is the bigger win. 60 kWh/month of phantom load is worth eliminating, but the real prize is making sure the heat pump runs efficiently the months it does work.

Regarding the 2–3 kWh/day idle, that is significant. Someone more knowledgeable than me about could hopefully help you track it down. Worth checking whether it’s a crankcase heater or an auxiliary element idling.

I was told that the heat pump would idle at 100W. I have confirmed this average, but it is in bursts, cycling on and off every 10 minutes.

My plan is to have the company that installed it to do the turn on in the fall, ensuring that it is all up to par.

Thanks for your thoughts. :slight_smile: