The Sharky isn’t out of stock. Certain distributors might not have ordered in anough of them but there’s nothing like the shortage of supply that the industry experienced during the pandemic.
Main distributors for UK / Ireland as below. Others are resellers.
Stockshed Ltd
Stoneycroft House
Mud Lane
Eversley
RG27 0QS
United Kingdom
Contact : Adrian Page
Tel : 0800 193 3200
Email : [email protected]
Sycous Ltd
46 The Calls
Leeds
LS2 7EY
United Kingdom
Contact : Luke Chambers
Tel : 0113 4575 536
Email : [email protected]
MWA Technology Ltd
2 Wharton Street Industrial Estate
Wharton Street
Birmingham
B7 5TR
Contact: Dennis Hirons
Tel: 0121 327 7771
Email: [email protected]
FWIW if you specifically want a DN20 (130 mm x G1" flow sensor body) Sharky 775 with 230 VAC and you don’t care for it to be new-new then there are shedloads of them available from a large job back in 2015 that somebody mis-ordered.
e.g.
Danfoss Sonometer 1100 = Diehl Sharky 775 in a different frock.
Those will come with both mbus cards and pulse output cards if they’re from the job I suspect they are.
(I picked up a bunch for £50 apiece…because I needed the m-bus cards…then gave away the meters themselvs on LinkedIn a while ago)
The Kv value on that will be 5.48 or 3.3 kPa at 1000 litrre/hour. Perfectly fine for a little heat pump. Those 775s you can read as often as you like on 230 VAC or every 5 mins on battery.
They aren’t heating/cooling meters though so won’t be accounting for the energy shunted back out of the hosue during startup/shutdown/defrost.
Given the resumed interest by the RECC/NIC into my “installer” I must quickly measure the actual output Energy/Power in the water pipes.
To save money I would use the much cheaper M Bus not, unfortunately, the Mod-bus.
Should I use a direct PC Serial port OR an Arduino acting as master?
On accessing the “PI Hut” your good name came up as an “Awesome” source of information about the relative merits of the M Bus and the MODBUS.
The visiting SAMSUNG engineer provided greater insights into my SAMSUNG heat pump, not all of the insights complimentary to SAMSUNG.
For example, the SAMSUNG Engineer pointed out the use of additional relays to "protect " the standard motor relays from burnout. ( see page 23 of the Samsung Control kit manual).
The Additional relays are “required to increase motor power and to protect the PCB Motor relays from burnout caused by the large startup inrush currents often in excess of 10Amps!”.
Given my ferocious multiple motor oscillations…
…I do not expect my Relays to survive until new year!
I need to stop the “oscillations” now apparent on my secondary water loop!..surely without another 50 l tank!
If tanks on BOTH Primary and Secondary water loops are required then a return to the idea of a shared common Water tank would be required?
Why use Relays anyway ?.. and then use yet more relays to cure this …optically isolated zero crossing triacs would surely be more reliable!
Yes, that’s the same pump that I’ve got. Happy to do some tests.
Your UMP3 won’t be getting close to 10A. I’ve also got a UPM3 and at max power it uses less than 0.3A. According to the datasheet your UMP3 has a max inrush current of 4A, however since Samsung is controlling the pump via PWM the inrush capacitor in the pump will be permanently charged resulting in zero inrush current when the pump is cycling and the heat pump is switched on.
This isn’t exactly news. It happens. The relay contacts need to be made of a suitable material and suitably rated. I suspect size and cost might have had a excessive influence on the choice of relay.
Unfortunately not. While it helps significantly, the inrush can last many mains cycles while the motor gets up to speed and the magnetic fields stabilise.
Again, like the relay, the triac needs an adequate I²t rating so that it too doesn’t burn out during the inrush period.
Again, Robert, many thanks for your knowledgeable expertise!
It certainly looks that the primary requirement that SAMSUNG made in their design was cost.
However, the suggested SAMSUNG solution to the problem of burnt out relay contacts is the provision of another , larger relay, in series with the first relay!. See page 23 of the SAMSUNG CONTROL Manual
PWM is certainly used if the PWM control cable is correctly connected. I’ve just done some testing on my Samsung ASHP UMP3 pump. The pump is not controlled by the relay, it’s controlled via the PWM input. The relay is always closed (240V always present) and the pump is stopped and stared via the PWM signal, therefore the inrush capacitors will always be charged as long as the heatpump controller is powered. You can check to see if the PWM signal is active on your pump by looking for the green flashing LED. If you see this LED flashing then the pump is in PWM mode:
When used and working , the PWM Green LED should oscillate at 12 flashes per second.
When NOT used and NOT Working , the PWM flashes at 1 Flash per second…
My visiting SAMSUNG engineer could not explain why the PWM driver does not work on many SAMSUNG Heat PUMPS.
He, himself, could not get the PWM motor driver to work.
That is the probable reason that the Motor(S) are still destroying relays, and that the in series Relay shown i on page 23 of the Samsung manual should be implemented.
Given the Admission by my visiting SAMSUNG Engineer that the “PWM Subsystem may not work” I must assume that many SAMSUNG HEAT PUMPS have the PWM subsystem disconnected.
My Wiring is exactly as per your diagram.
No Signal is output on the TWO PWM Signal pins , with the Green LED issuing a 1 HZ Warning that it can see no signal.
The Grundfoss manuals states that “when working the PWM Green LED will oscillate at 12 HZ”.
A meter on the pins shows DC of Zero volts.
Sorry, but many SAMSUNG heat pumps Do NOT have PWM Motor control installed.
The Further admission by my visiting SAMSUNG Engineer that the Additional Series Relay is intended to “reduce contact sparking” further adds to the disquiet.
Now suffering from “Short Cycling on both my primary AND secondary Water loops” a working PWM control would both reduce energy consumption and reduce the Violent switching , short cycling , on my primary water circuit.
When the Pulse Width Modulation is ZERO the Motors will be driven at MAXIMUM speed . This is a safety feature to transport excessive heat following a electronic malfunction.
3.When No PWM signal is available , the motors will be driven at maximum speed consuming a larger amount of energy.
The Larger starting currents are carried by, and damage the PCB mounted relays.
The PCB relays can be protected by the addition of another Relay in Series with the PCB relay.
When operated with WEATHER COMPENSATION, aka SAMSUNG WATER LAW , the RUN demand from the control box to the Outdoor Heat Pump is the logical AND of the Water LAW Thermostats AND the ROOM Thermostat.
7.With a Heat Exchanger fitted to provide isolation of the HEAT PUMP from the RADIATOR water circuit the system may Short cycle at TWO oscillation frequencies, one for each water circuit .
Multiple Short Cycling could be limited with the use of a “LOW LOSS HEADER”.
My Installation is still not working despite 10, TEN months of complaints!
Can anyone supply the name of a supplier of a SAMSUNG HEAT PUMP PCB with a working Pulse Width Modulation , PWM, driver for a Grundfoss PWM Motor?
A visiting SAMSUNG Engineer was unable to explain why so many PCB’s DO NOT supply PWM signals to the supplied PWM Motors!
Virtually ALL GAS Boilers have PWM Motors fitted and working , including the gas boiler removed from my house before the "installation " of this SAMSUNG HEAT PUMP have PWM Motors with working drivers!
I have been told yet again:
"THe MCS , NIC and the RECC cannot help when your “installer” has been stuck OFF.,
You must seek legal advice "
As a 75 year old OAP I cannot possibly "take legal advice !.
The following graph shows the difference between the Samsung claimed COP obtained from the Energy usage on the front panel and the ACTUAL COP i Obtain on the RADIATOR CIRCUIT.
