Definitely over due an upgrade!
See the latest video for details.
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Ok, I think I can see the issue in the code. I will have to take a look tomorrow.
Awesome thanks Stuart, but there is no rush on this, next time to are working on the code if you can take a look that would be fine
The message on my browser is simply the āsaving settings failedā etc.
How can I get a console? Do I have to connect to the usb to get it?
Yes, thatās correct use a usb cable to the ESP32 and the computer. Then a program like putty to view the output.
Anyone got a source which doesnot cost a bucket full of cash or is willing to sell a single ina228 and a single lm5009a chip? (I am in the netherlands)
Looking to complete my diycurrentshunt 
Currently i am running the controllerboard without lcd, should the lcd be touch screen ?
What value should f1 be?
Thanks!
Solved, i think i found everything
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My system replaces these chips with an LEM HD50-S Hall effect sensor (no shunt resistor!) and two resistors as a simple voltage divider. Both get connected to an RP2040.
While the Pico isnāt terribly accurate (they didnāt think of verifying the size of the internal capacitors, and one of them is seriously off) itās good enough for now. The next version gets an external ADC. Connecting one of these to the ESP32 instead should be reasonably straightforward.
OK, so I got connected up to the ESP32, had my console running and tried savingā¦and it worked. No problem.
I even tried changing the rules just before hooking up and it gave the error ānot savedā. And now it works even disconnected. Chalk it up to a random bug, I guess.
EDIT: after having it run for a while, the problem comes back. If I hook up to it, it goes away. This is tough to catch as I canāt leave a computer hooked up to the esp32 easily.
apropos nothing, system running with no issues onboard for three weeks now, uptime 15+ days (had to alter some wiring on the first week.) Last 5days LiFePO4 bank is disconnected, only FLA exercising 
Well done @stuart !
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Finally finnished my 14s3p 30kwh powerwall, just sort of 14 modules for the 3rd bank.
Just waiting for the chip shortage to be over so I can order the new controller, shunt and more modules
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there is no shortage for the new controller board if you order from jlcpcb
yeah, but Iād like to order the controller, shunt and 50 modules at the same time to reduce shipping costs,
for the module there are other components other than the ATTINY thatās missing.
Not unless you are getting lots of communication issues, or you have a very large number of cell modules (40+)
Ok cool thanks, I have 42 cells and attached is my current system with only 28 of those cells connected with modules, I might just order 4.4 board and repurpose the attiny841 from the 4.21 moduels, this will save a some cost.
Only way to know for sure is to connect up the 14 new 4.4 moduels and see what happens
Hi all,
Iām about to attempt to build DIYBMS v4 boards and was wondering if someone could attach a high res image for the v440 cell balance and ESP32-based controller boards?
I can use a solder oven, it would be great to verify the position of all components though before baking.
Thank you.
Hello everyone.
I am building my first DIYBMS from scratch (V4 with ESP32) and after soldering two independent BMS I find that the both LCD does not work at all. The LCDs are the ones of Stuartās Github bill of materials.
The controller seems to be working fine entering in through the web environment.
As much as I review it, I donāt see what is wrong. I can only think of two possibilities:
. I have used the āAZDelivery 3 x ESP32 ESP-WROOM-32 NodeMCU Module WiFi + Bluetooth Dev Kit Cā. Itās not the 32D.
. I have not yet installed the two new microswitches that Stuart has implemented to avoid use the screen.
Could it be any of these things?
Could someone guide me on what could be wrong?.
Thanks a lot.
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That wonāt make much difference, the C and D are just revisions of the ESP-WROOM-32 itself but are 100% compatible with eachother.
Make sure they have the touch IC on the back side. Iāve ordered a few that this was not soldered but were sold as touch capable.
Connect the BMS to your computer and capture the console output as it should have some diagnostics to indicate what it thinks of the LCD (if it even detects it).