Hi guys,
Could someone recommend a 3-way valve compatible with this heat pump ? I’ve only find valves with 3 lines but Samsung manual says 4 lines needs to be connected. So I have no idea what 3-way valve shall I buy.
Thanks!
I’m not sure what you mean by 3 or 4 lines. A standard sprung return diverter valve (Normally open to space heating) can be connected to B15 (Neutral) & B17 (NO), see:
This is what I’ve got on my 5kW Gen6. However, if your heat pump is larger than about 7kW then a sprung return valve is not the best choice, they are quite restrictive to higher flow rates and the valve can get damaged due to high flow rates. A better choice for larger heat pumps is a ESBE or Honywell VC, @MWPHS stock some good valves:
From the Samsung manual:
- B17 : NO (normally open)
- B18 : NC (normally closed)
- B15: Neutral
- B16: Live (permanent live)
Hi Glyn, Thanks. Sorry I’ve meant 3 wires. Something like this…
Shit I can’t find good examples either they have 3 wires or 5 wires 
Sorry I’ve found this example in Slovakia but you can see it has 3 wires:
or this
It’s possible connect and if so to which terminals ?
I have 8KW pump so maybe it could handled my max flow is around 20 liters per minute.
Thanks!
Looking at the datasheet for this valve, it looks like you may just be able two connect two wires to B1 and B6
Thanks Glyn but not sure I understand. I already have a primary pump connected to B1 and B6 I guess so how the valve works here ? It needs to disconnect the voltage so the valve return to the postion B or ?
Or do I need to connect wire Y to NO/NC ? So I will connect L to B16, N to B15 and Y to NO or NC (this I’m not sure where) or ?
Thanks for you patience
Apologies, I mean B15 and B17. See the diagram and pinout in my post above
Thanks for clarification. So in my case I will connect L wire to B16 (this is 230V potential right?) and N wire to B15. Y wire I will keep disconnected. Is that right connection ? But it that diagram you said that B16 is permanent live so how it works exactly. Does the pump does not supply B16 in case DWH is off and supply when it is ?
Update: Sorry seems my question is all wrong. The valve has 3 wires. N, Y and L. N is neutral (B15), L is phase 230V (B16). This is clear but where to connect that Y one ? To B17 ? This is don’t know exactly.
Thanks!
Michal
If using 2-point control, L (bn, 3) is the permanent live > B16 and Y (bk, 6) will be the switched live > B17, to move the valve to the DHW position.
And just to muddy to water further, if you want another option for a high Kvs (low pressure drop) valve, then maybe consider a Sintesi…
Thanks Tony. It has a sprung so when there is no voltage it returns to original position. But this one has 2 wires so I guess I need to connect N to neutra B15.
So the final wiring should be L > B16, Y > B17 and N > B15. Is that correct ?
I will definitely check that Sintesi as well. Thanks.
I was referring to the ESBE VZD above, which is a 2-point controlled valve, with a switched live >B17 to change its position for DHW and a permanent live >B16 to move it back. Neutral >B15
This may help…
Thanks for explanation, now it’s clear to me. I just wanted to be sure I will not burn out the board if I’ll connect Ybk6 to B17.
Do you think this type of valve is not good ? I have 28mm pipes, flow from 8 lpm to 22 lpm usually.
ESBE make good valves, but I generally only use them for mixing applications and prefer the Sintesi for most heat pump diverters, as they have a higher Kvs, ie 18.3 vs 6 for that ESBE VZD, which is useful if only using the primary pump, rather than secondary pumps etc.
I only use one primary pump for HP and DHW. In this case it’s OK to use ESBE ? I need just something simple which does not cost a fortune. Thanks.
One more question sorry to bother, this valve has 5 wires, it’s possible to connect it as well or no ?
Thanks!
If you are only relying on the primary pump then you need to calculate what the maximum system pressure drop will be and ensure you sufficient residual pump head - using a diverter with a higher Kvs will help if need be. That ESBE VZD has quite a low Kvs (high pressure drop), the Sintesi is at the other end of the scale, but there are other options in between that may suit.
That other valve in the link above is a spring return valve with switched live, neutral and earth. It also has a volt free end switch, which could be used to switch on a pump etc when the valve is switched/opened, which you won’t really need to worry about.
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Thanks a lot. Last question I promise, I also found these ones, could you please confirm it would work since I’m not 100% sure.
This has 3 wires - blue, red and yellow. If I understand it correctly the correct connection would be BLUE (Neutral) > B15, RED > B17/B18 not sure. YELLOW disconnected.
Also this one is similar so I guess connection as one above:
Pressure lost is not a concern since I have some pressure lost somewhere on the lines further away. Want to place it right after a pump.
I can’t find any datasheet for this valve. Every valve can potentially be different, so its very important to check the datasheet.
I can’t find a datasheet, but the making on this valve shows that it’s not a sprung return valve, so it needs to be powered to both open and close. Therefore, it will need to be connected to both the NO and NC connections on the controller. The order of the connections will depend on which way you pipe it.
Thank you. So basically also that cheap orange one could work but I’d rather buy something more serious.
The other one has schematics drew on the body. BR - L, BU - N and BK - both direction arrows. So I guess it could be spring loaded and when there is no voltage on BK then it’s closed and when there is 230V then it’s open. What Do you think ? Running costs could be cheaper since there is no input when there is no voltage. Thanks!
I find you generally get what you pay for and for me having to go back a change something premertually is a false economy!
As mentioned, a spring return valve will only have a neutral and switched live (maybe an earth), so if it also has another black wire, then its either a 2-point or 3-point controlled - re read all above posts!
Good luck.
I see your point and you are totally right. I was thinking about it and indeed spring return valve would be the best for economy. It’s under load only in cause there is a DHW request and if not, there is no load so most the time it will not consume any energy. Thank you to point is out. I’ve did some calculation and usually these 2-point controlled has 7W constant consumption which is ~61KW of energy roughly which is around 10 euro/year so in 10 year this will be over 100 eur only of an electricity price. The only question is how long these spring valves last.
What would you say for this?