Greetings, I want to remotely monitor various parameters on my 2003 55’ cruiser. Many of them relate to power - on/off, AC/DC, consumption, etc. The vessel has a generator, inverter, and can be connected to shore power. Feeds are 240VAC with 50A breakers. I am at the start of this project. I h…

Welcome, Tim to the OEM forum. When you say meter, I take it that you mean an ordinary analogue panel meter that has just those two wires to it (either from the shunt or from the c.t.) - something that resembles this [image] or is it a digital one? If all 4 are analogue, then it should be relati…

Thank you for the quick reply Robert. Yes, they are analogue meters. Here is a shot of the full breaker panel. [breaker panel] DC meters are top left and AC meters (two voltage/one current each side) in the center between the breakers. Nothing else appears to be connected to any of them but I …

When you do that, look for any details on the meters themselves. What I’d hope to see on them is a voltage rating - probably 75 mV or 150 mV - on the back or the label but maybe on the front, as well as the current scale on the front. Also, does the d.c. shunt have a voltage or a resistance rating …

will do on meter specs. Arduino(s)/Pi will be powered from house batteries 12vdc probably with buck converter although I have a couple 12vdc to USB mini plug units left over from other work that I might also apply. There will be several “digital” inputs - 12vdc on/off status that I plan to level s…

Our experience with ESP8266s is mixed. My colleague Brian ( @borpin ) recommends a Raspberry Pi Zero W instead - more reliable, he says. The reason for asking about the power was because of the battery shunt. As the Arduino power will probably be common to one side of that battery one way or another …

Robert, I hadn’t considered Pi zeros but I’m still in the investigation stage so appreciate the thoughts. I did some more digging. Pictures worth a 1000 in this case. At the top level, one great thing about my boat’s wiring is every conductor is separate as you can see here. It is also very nea…

apology for the big photos - haven’t found a preview button or way to resize once in a post…

[image] topcorner18: I think it will greatly simplify my situation to just add clip-on CTs to get AC current vs tapping into the existing CTs (On the left in the pic.). Would you concur? That was my thinking from the start, but I thought it was worth checking to see if your idea was viable. …

Thank you Robert. I get the “drift” no pun intended (well maybe a little) re. the DC current situation. If I am reading this correctly, I would be using the differential op amp to pick-off the voltage differential across the shut then condition to get it into the 3.3v arduino. It’s been quite a w…

I’m looking for a single supply, voltage difference amplifier. And I’m struggling. The Texas INA149 will work on a single supply, it can handle an input voltage way above what you need, and shift the voltage down into the Arduino’s range, but it’s unity gain, so you need another stage of amplificati…

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Tapping existing metering hardware on boat for power measurements

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