Anyone noticed with your pumps power draw of around 60W when completely idle ?
I’ve just noticed it and don’t have any explanation. What is consuming the power there ? These are 3 consequent days. Outside temp above 5C, during a day above 10C. Here I’ve noticed when the pump finished the heating because the indoor temperature was reached it idled fine for around 40 minutes consuming 11W which is just right for powering controller and circuits. BUT the, suddenly is starts consuming 60W I don’t know for what. The pump is idle completely and there is no reason for that. This lasts couple of hours until eventually drop for 11W idle consumption again. This is super weird as there is no reason for that intermediate draw lasting several hours. Are they mining come crypto or what ? No jokes…
Hi Michal.
That it’s constant, with definite “on” and “off” timing, suggests to me that it is a winterisation circuit (electrical resistance heating) being energised.
Either that, or it’s you pulling so much data out of the controller with your MIM-B19N that the poor thing is having to supply extra power to the F1-F4 terminals just to keep up with you…
Hi Sarah, sorry, forgot to thank you for these hints Nevertheless I need to revive this topic since it is still continuing even in case there is really hot out there so this won’t be energizing circuit for sure
You can see here that there was 20C outside and still this damned consumption out of nowhere… I estimate it’s maybe 20h a days if the pump is off consuming 1kW of energy for nothing. Yeah not a big deal it’s 360kWh/year but anyway
The pattern is that after the pump stops it is always idle (10W which I would expect) but only for a short time usually 5 - 45 mins then again is starts to consume 60W Circulation pump is off and it’s not 3-way valve neither since it’s not moving. This is really a mystery and driving me nuts, any other ideas ? That Modbus I hardly doubt because it’s polling all the time even on those idle periods with 10W consumption. Maybe it was like that before as well I don’t know, the only difference is modbus installed and DHW tank with 3-way valve.
hey @Michal_S I have just commisioned my gen 7 r290 16kw samsung.
I have noticed the same 60w load, which I presume is a heater in the external unit which led me to Standby - Samsung EHS Wiki
Having taken all the covers of the unit you can see the compressor is nice and toasty. Would be nice in the summer months to turn this off and only do a prewarm before doing DHW.
I did note that the actual unit’s insulation is poor at best. Two very loosely fitted jackets that have massive gaps. I am sure just some tap would help seal it up.
I am tempted to put some Dodo DEAD-EZY car sound deadening mats in the unit to help with the compressor noise and extra insulation to help with the heat loss. Just stuff the whole thing with rock wall
Can be disabled using the “K buttons” installed in the Outdoor Unit (the factory default is “enabled”).
Is a 150W resistance heater arranged over part of the base panel of the unit (in contrast to your Wiki Standby reference which implies a 60W heater serving just the compressor seal oil reservoir).
The Guide also states that provision for free drainage of the Outdoor Unit casing is required to “prevent ice formation inside the base plate at subzero temperatures”. There is no mention of heating the compressor seal oil (which I suspect is one of the purposes the compressor “Safety Start” sequence).
I haven’t often seen the base heater activated on my EHS (though admittedly I don’t monitor the controller continuously). Indeed, looking through my SNET-recorded files, the only times I’ve seen base heater operating was during defrosts (and for a few minutes afterwards).
Maybe there’s a completely different 60W heater somewhere?
Incidentally, is there a Gen 7 equivalent to the above EHS Installers Guide? If so, it would be a useful resource for the forum…
I really don’t know what this crap is but definitely it is heating something because if there is this load then some compressor temperatures are raising up. It’s really funny this is doing all the time during summer even if there is 30C+ outside.
This is graph from a day when there is no DHW heating… Completely wasted 1kWh of electricity…
What is worse, that once per day this stupid pump runs a water pump!!! Why ??? With DHW connected it will just steal the heat from your DHW tank for no reason! It’s running for 6 damn minutes and I’m asking why… of course the pump is opening DHW circuit to do this shit.
The top of the compressor is at 53 °C. (its not done a dhw cycle for over 12 hours)
I’ve stuffed sheep’s wool insulation to reduce the compressor’s heat loss. Added about three layers on top and one at the bottom. (I would upload more images but not allowed)
I also added some thermal paste under the temperature sensor on top of the tank to help the unit get an accurate reading. I am waiting to see the cycle time on the heater.
I will hunt for the gen 7 r290 installers guide that would have been helpful last week!
I was referring to the “NASA Protocol” link on Samsung EHS Wiki. This contained information on NASA message headers and a list of known register contents, but was taken down a few weeks ago (some conspiracy theorists reckoned that Samsung didn’t approve of users compromising their technical assets and were behind its removal).
Happily the information is still available (I took a download before it disappeared and converted it to MS Word): Samsung NASA Codes.docx (77.1 KB)
The file appears to have been patiently reverse engineered, and though incomplete, is a good start for those interested in monitoring their controller data.
I will report back but it seems the energy saving mode has a good saving! Just waiting to make sure it does not do another heat cycle. It saves 2W vs the standby with it on, but it also seems to stop the 60w crank heater from coming on. I am waiting for a good few hours to pass to confirm this. (the extra insulation might just make the cool down slower)
Please understand that the logic is there to protect the compressor against liquid stroke.
It measures and compares temperatures and if needed it activates coil induction heating to the compressor.
Entering the logic:
Satisfies All below conditions. on 1min.
A. Comp’s IPM temp ↓80℃
B. Comp Tdis : ↓25℃
C. Comp Ttop : ↓25℃
D. 1 hour after released H condition.
10 min after released other condition. (expect H)
E. There is no error that triggers comp coil heating error
F. If Inverter error occurs, after 10min error release.
G. comp off status
H. not inverter check mode.
I. Out temp – low pressure temp < 10 ℃
Release logic condition.
It can be released when 1 of following condition is satisfied.
A. comp Tdis : Out temp + 35℃↑
B. Comp Ttop : Out temp + 35℃↑
C. Comp Ttop : 50℃↑
D. comp on signal
E. 12hr after heating.
G. Error occurs that can enter CCH mode.
H. during 3hr after enter the CCH mode. (currently Ttop - lower Ttop) < 2℃
I. 4way valve change (on → off , off → on)
J. enter inverter check mode.
Mostly the logic happens when there is a difference between ambient and the suction temperature (condition I.), triggering the CCH to start.
I need to talk some time to work out what this actually means and if there is anything can be done to optimise it
This is a very useful contribution, @mrsimonbennett, even if presented in Samsung’s customary mangled English.
Rather like the algorithm that swipes heat from the DHW tank for no good reason (as noted by @Michal_S above, and ranted about at length elsewhere), it seems that it’s something most of us just have to put up with, because overriding safety or integrity protection systems - even temporarily - can be quite risky.
If you are determined, though, the activation list you give offers several potential alternatives. If I read the document literally, all 9 conditions A-I have to be met to initiate the oil heating, and if you can fool the controller into not recognising any one of them, it won’t start the heating. So for example if you forced into the controller a false ambient temperature value such that condition I was not satisfied, it would not activate the heating.
The subject of changing Outdoor Unit controller inputs (using Samsung NASA Codes for example) is exercising several minds elsewhere on the forum (@toadhall, and @Topaz amongst them), and I believe some progress is being made.
Personally, though, I’d be very wary in case I wrecked my compressor. If I was really bothered about an “unnecessary” couple of hundred kWh/year I’d probably just switch off the heat pump completely in summer except for a DHW run twice a week for half an hour…
Nevertheless I need to revive this topic since it is still continuing even in case there is really hot out there so this won’t be energizing circuit for sure 
.