Samsung heat pump: high energy use, help requested

[Emmanuel-W (Emmanuel)]

Hello all

Glad to have found a community that’s interested in trying to heat as efficiently as possible.

First off: I’m not technically skilled when it comes to heating or things like that, I’m going to need help in a way ‘explain it to me like I’m 5’. English is not my native language; I try to pick up as much as I can. On the other hand, I’m trying to run this house as energy efficient as possible with the things we have, without investing in more hardware the next couple of years. The only thing I’m willing to invest in is a kind of hub which manages my electrical use (solar – net).

My question
I think I am using way to much energy for heating my house + hot water and I would like to check with this community to see:

1. Are the electric power numbers (kWh - see below) within a normal range?
2. What can be done to my heat pump settings to lower my energy usage without compromising comfort
3. How can I tell my heating system to perform during low tarif hours and to stay low or idle at high tarif hours (without compromising my heating efficiency)?

Desired answer (form).
Ideally, I’d have a full overview of all controllers settings, options and field settings as they have been adjusted already so many times, I don’t know which one is correct and which isn’t anymore. I’ve learned that one wrong setting can make a long search why a solution isn’t working, so I think a full overview would be the best starting point to make sure all parameters are fine. I’m willing to follow the manual and set everything back to standard if need be. I’ve found this manual, which I think is correct: https://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/202407/20240717105028412/DB68-08470A-16_IB_EHS_Wired_Remote-Control_Kit1_EU_Book_EN_240630-D05.pdf

Situation

I’m pretty sure that the technician who set up the system isn’t skilled enough to make sure the heating installation runs as good/efficient as it should. I have 0 trust in this company (we were given no choice in who installed our equipment as our house was built by a construction company who delivers houses fully ready).

Thank you in advance

Thank you advance for your help. If you need more info, I’ll try to give it; just be aware that I don’t have detailed readouts or that I’m very low skilled when it comes to this type of equipment.

Power (kWh) use for my Samsung installation (data source: Samsung app)
Sep – 75, Oct – 85, Nov – 288, Dec – 316, Jan – 473, Feb (16 days in) – 218

My setup :

• Heating installation

  • Indoor: Samsung, AE200TNWTEH, 8KW, 200 liters
  • Outdoor: Samsung FJM R32 outdoor unit (8kW I think, I’m not sure)
  • Controller: Samsung MWR-… – this hangs in the living area
  • Samsung smart app: I can set the room temp and can read energy data
  • An extra kettle next to my indoor heat pump: look like this, I don’t know what it is or does exactly
    
    

• House:

  • newly built semi-detached house (highly insulated)
  • floor heating on 2 levels, but only in 1 zone (no split)
  • Solar panels: 4.5 W peak
  • Location: Belgium, Gent-area

• Habits

  • Room temp: 21°c stable (living area- is regularly heated by sunshine – big windows south oriented)
  • Showers: 2-3 per day (max 5 mins)
  • Baths: 3-4 per day
  • We have an electricity contract that follows market prices. We try to make sure not to use any electricity during peak hours. Average day/tarif looks like this (peak in red square).

[Timbones (Tim)]

Hello! Welcome to the forum

@Emmanuel-W

Are the electric power numbers (kWh - see below) within a normal range?

Power (kWh) use for my Samsung installation (data source: Samsung app)
Sep – 75, Oct – 85, Nov – 288, Dec – 316, Jan – 473, Feb (16 days in) – 218

Your numbers seem to match with similar style of properties on HeatpumpMonitor.org for December and January. Not bad considering the high water usage.

@Emmanuel-W

An extra kettle next to my indoor heat pump: look like this, I don’t know what it is or does exactly

This will likely be the expansion vessel if it has just one pipe plumbed to it.

@Emmanuel-W

What can be done to my heat pump settings to lower my energy usage without compromising comfort

The general approach for heatpumps is to adjust the controls to run at the lowest possible flow temperature, without going too low and cycling the heatpump. This usually means adjusting the weather compensation curve (called Water Law on Samsung).

Also, running the heating continuously is usually best for performance and costs, i.e. “low and slow”. [See topic on House Thermal Inertia and Roomstat Setback (some cautionary notes)]

@Emmanuel-W

How can I tell my heating system to perform during low tarif hours and to stay low or idle at high tarif hours (without compromising my heating efficiency)?

Some heatpumps have some kind of “smart input” that could be wired up with something that knows the price throughout the day. Alternatively, if your controller has any kind of scheduling capability, you could increase the target room temperature during cheap periods, and decrease during peak periods.

PS: fitting a battery to the solar installation would allow you to keep the heating on during the peak periods.

[SarahH (Sarah Hanson)]

Hi @Emmanuel-W, yes welcome to the forum. @Timbones beat me to the reply but I would echo his comments 100%.

1. For comparison, my total household power consumption (detached 3-bed house, southern England, including cooking etc.) is about 25kWh per day during winter, so your ~20kWh/day for the heat pump sounds fairly consistent. You may be able to tweak things to improve matters (using the FSVs - Field Setting Values - that Samsung make available to us), but by the sounds of it you are fairly optimised already. If your installer did not tell you about these, just call us for help…
2. Yes your photo is definitely the expansion vessel. This is provided simply to absorb the expansions and contractions of the circulating water as it heats and cools during the day. The only thing you need to do is check occasionally that the pressure gauge above the vessel is showing 1-2barg, and add water to the circuit if it’s a little low. (If it is, it might indicate a leak in your radiator circuit, which would need fixing. Normally it shouldn’t vary much.)

[Emmanuel-W (Emmanuel)]

Hey!
Thank you @Timbones and @SarahH for your input and warm welcome. I have some follow up questions/remarks.
First off: correction on post 1: 4-5 baths per week* but I assume you guys figured that out already.

Numbers on par with other properties: Ok. I thought a heatpump was ment to be ecological, low energy cost. Running this stuff costs me more than letting it run on gas. I feel betrayed. I also can’t believe that I need to put in 16kWh of energy every day (january) just to shower and be warm in a newly insulated semi-detached S-orietaded house with floor heating. It seems so high for a month where the lowest temp was -4 and max was 11°C.

The extra kettle: thanx for the clarification

Smart input: I’ll look into that - the installer never heard of this but I did saw something like smart grid in the manual somewhere. That should be it, right?

Here are my follow up questions on 2 subjects

1. Timing and noise
As you can see on this graph below (source: data Samsung app Smart things) my system works most of the time during night time. I’ve read that’s not the best time to work because the outdoor temperature is colder, which means the heater needs to add more heat than during the day. → higher energy cost

The noise from my outdoor unit is loud. So loud that I can feel the unit working in the room where the unit is installed (floor vibration) on the roof. When it’s turning full monty, you can hear it 2 levels down. Especially at night, it’s rather anoying. The indoor unit has a pleasant noise level.

Questions:

1. How do I let my system run during the times when the temperature is higher (not at night). (Take water law into account on which weekly schedules aren’t possible as far as I have seen while messing in the field settings). Idealy my heatpump runs maximum between 10am and 4pm (high degrees, good sun and low power cost).
2. Is there a way to reduce the noise of the outdoor unit?

2. Watter Law vs thermostat demand

As you can see on my photo below my heat pump uses the controller temp setting (indoor). I ask to have a consistent temparature based on the indoor controller. I don’t have a 3rd party controler.

I’ve read (so far) that when you actively manage your heat pump, you get to choose between 2 options: manage by set temperature on the controller (21°C in my case) or that you ‘let the pump run free’ on water law and accept that there are minor fluctuations in warmth throughout the house (and that you can adjust with +5 or -5 of what the pump is giving you based on water law).

Questions on watter law for my heat pump:

1. Is it possible to let this heat pump use water law in such a way that this temperature is achieved, with minor fluctiations(+1 or - 1°c is minor for me)?
2. What happends when I want to cool the house? Does if follow the same system, will it go from heating to cooling automaticaly using this water law or is a manuel switch required and what is the impact on power usage on both options?

The goal for me is:

1. I don’t have to touch my heatpump (apart from tweaking here and there) and can let it run automatically throughout the entire year (from -4°C to 30°c) in such a way that I achieve about 21°C in my living space.
2. It uses the most power when there is sun or when there is low energy cost (between 10am and 4pm and night time are low cost periods) so that my electricity costs are as low as possible.
3. My installation runs continuously as I have read everywhere that it is way better for the installation to run continuously than having an ‘on-off’-way of working.
4. My installation runs as efficiënt as possible within the above requirements.

Thank you all for your help

[Bill.Thomson]

@Emmanuel-W

English is not my native language; I try to pick up as much as I can.

You’ve done a good job. Your English is excellent.

[gekkekoe]

Seems like you had the wrong expectations.

I use around 25kWh-30kWh these days, Yesterday for example it was 25kWh and it produced 121 kWh of heat. If I convert that to gas usage, I would need 121 / 9,77 (1 m3 gas = 9,77 kWh) = 12,4 m3 of gas.

I pay on average 0,26 euro per kWh. Gas is currently at 1,44 euro per m3.
Using heatpump: 0,26 * 25 = 6,5 euros
Using gas: 12,4 * 1,44 = 17,85 euros
For me it’s much cheaper to use a heatpump, but that could be different in Belgium.

Regarding noise:
A heatpump runs best if it does things slowly, so lower frequencies, high flow rate, low delta T will help you get good efficiency and comfort. At high frequencies, it will make more noise. I don’t have a Samsung, but an Ecodan which is pretty good (at least the sw75yaa that I have) noise wise

[SteveSpanners (Steve Kendall)]

For maximum heating efficiency the heatpump should be running all the time, and the output should match the thermal losses of the house, so a constant internal temperature is maintained.
The secret to this is the Water Law graph. So the colder it is outside, the warmer the water circulating round the system. What are your WL settings? #201 and #202?

[Emmanuel-W (Emmanuel)]

Field settings water law.
201:
low 20
high -5
202
low target value: 25
high target value: 50

Does the system take these numbers into account though when i’m foricing it to follow the indoor setting of 21°C?

[SteveSpanners (Steve Kendall)]

I suspect your high energy usage is due to you trying to control the system using an indoor thermostat. I assume your system is running flat out in short bursts, like a unmodulated gas boiler. This would also explain your noise issues. I guess that #2091 and #2093 have been set (together with other settings) to allow your thermostat to “control” the system.
I only have experience of my system (Samsung 8kW operating WL), in a well insulated 1940’s bungalow (96m^2). My figures are 201 are:- low 15, high -3 and 202 are low 18 high 33. This maintains an indoor temperature of 20 degrees 24/7 thought the whole property using approximately 15kWh of electricity per day at this time of year. (Without using an indoor thermostat.)
As your house is a new build I would expect high levels of insulation (and airtightness) and expect your 202 figures would need to be lower if you chose to run WL.

[SarahH (Sarah Hanson)]

Hi again, @Emmanuel-W.

Going through your questions:

(smart grid)
This allows your utility company to partially “take over” your HP controller in order to match regional power supply and demand. It isn’t available where I live, but it might be in Belgium.

@Emmanuel-W

The noise from my outdoor unit is loud.

Your installer should have supplied rubber feet to your Outdoor Unit “…to reduce noise and vibration.” (Installation Manual). Especially important if roof-mounted I would have thought. Did he?

@Emmanuel-W

How do I let my system run during the times when the temperature is higher (not at night).

Well, the simple answer is to have a high night-time setback, but this is not necessarily the lowest cost option and may not even be feasible with your heat pump capability (see the House Thermal Inertia and Roomstat Setback (some cautionary notes) topic). I don’t use the programmer in the Samsung remote controller for space heating on-off timings (I have a third party roomstat for that) but it appears to have the necessary functionality.

Your other option is to enable Quiet Mode. (You can do this at the remote controller, including setting up which time spans at which you want it running quietly.) This mode restricts the compressor to ~60% speed. So it runs quieter, but takes longer to do anything (like getting your house warm in the morning).

@Emmanuel-W

you get to choose between 2 options:

This is where it gets a bit complicated, and it’s all down to your FSV#2093 setting. Starting from cold (e.g. after night-time setback finishes), if #2093 = 1 the heat pump will run at full speed until the LWT approaches the Water Law target, then slow down to minimum speed and stay there until the Roomstat is satisfied. This may result in LWT exceeding the WL target, but it won’t actually stop the compressor until your room reaches roomstat setpoint. But if #2093 is set 2-4, when LWT reaches WL target it will not only slow down but actually stop the compressor (even if the roomstat setpoint has not been reached). Once the LWT has fallen by ~2K (the water circuit is still operating so is removing heat via the radiators) the compressor will start again and cycle in this way until the roomstat is satisfied. (The only difference between #2093=2/3/4 is how the water circulation pump operates - off, on or cycling depending upon whether the roomstat is satisfied).

@Emmanuel-W

you can adjust with +5 or -5

Yes if your Water Law settings say LWT should be 40degC for a particular outdoor temperature, you can add or subtract up to 5degC to/from this number (i.e. have LWT = 35 to 45degC) if you need to adjust things temporarily (e.g. a cold easterly wind is keeping your living room unacceptably cold one day).

@Emmanuel-W

will it go from heating to cooling automaticaly

Not unless you have Cooling set up as an option (needs a second roomstat and setting up a separate Cooling WL on the FSVs).

Whether you run your HP on (day) and off (night) or continuously depends mainly on whether it is keeping your house comfortable. Conventional wisdom is that unless you have a really cheap TOU tariff it doesn’t make much difference to the economics how you run it. The undeniable optimisation factor is minimising your LWT consistent with comfort .

[MikeJH (Mike Heap)]

@Emmanuel-W

I’ve read (so far) that when you actively manage your heat pump, you get to choose between 2 options: manage by set temperature on the controller (21°C in my case) or that you ‘let the pump run free’ on water law and accept that there are minor fluctuations in warmth throughout the house (and that you can adjust with +5 or -5 of what the pump is giving you based on water law).

Questions on watter law for my heat pump:

1. Is it possible to let this heat pump use water law in such a way that this temperature is achieved, with minor fluctiations(+1 or - 1°c is minor for me)?

Whenever your thermostat is calling for heat your heat pump will be operating in water law. One of your problems may be that your thermostat is turning the heat pump on and off too frequently. Another is that you may have too high flow temperatures.

I would recommend setting your thermostat to 22C or higher so it no longer switches the heat pump off and adjust your water law settings until your room temperature stays around 21C. This will mean your heat pump will run continuously. However, your current settings seem very high for a well insulated house with underfloor heating. You may find 40-45C at an outside temperature of -5C will keep your house warm. The most efficient systems rarely go above 40C (mine is not one of them!).

Once you have found the lowest water law temperature settings that keep you comfortable, you can then decide whether you want to continue running continuously or have setbacks when electricity is more expensive. The problem with setbacks is you need higher flow temperatures to get the room temperature back up and you may or may not save money as a result.

You are using the Samsung internal thermostat and the option to change flow temperature by +5C or -5C is only available if you are using an external thermostat. This seems to be a rather unfortunate design fault by Samsung as being able to change your water law settings so easily is very useful.

One drawback of letting the heat pump run continuously is that at milder outside temperatures, Samsung is notorious for rapid cycling. This occurs when the emitters cannot emit sufficient heat to match the minimum heat output of the heat pump. That is a subject for another time though.

[Emmanuel-W (Emmanuel)]

I apolagise in advance for the long post.

@SarahH and @MikeJH Thank you so much for your answers.
@glyn.hudson I’ve found a post of you using a similar Samsung setup as I do based on your post and video. Would you be able to give this thread a quick look?

I’ve been ploughing through other posts, online forums and various installation guides I’ve found. Especially the settings 2091/92/3-93 are really hard for me to understand. I have to be honest, I really still don’t.

Here are my next questions

1. When I compare what I see on-screen and what I see in the manual; it’s not the same. Every name is different and I’m not sure that I’m putting in the right settings. Take a look at the screenshots below for field settings 201 and 202.
   For 201:

On my controller screen (MIM) it says 'low/high.

On the table it says ‘max/min point’. (code 2011/2012)

On the graph below it speaks of ‘upper/lower limit’.

Am I correct to say that field code 2011 ‘maxpoint’ in the table is the same as low limit on the graph and the same value as ‘high’ on my controller (MIM), in my case -3°C?

For 202:

Is my target value ‘low’ (30°C) the same as field code 2022 ‘min point’ and the same as ‘lower limit water out temperature range’ (graph)

2. These are my settings for cooling. Are those correct as welll?

Outdoor temperature

Water temperature

3. For the water law cooling and heating combined; there is now a gap (heating untill 17°c, cooling starts at 25). What will the system do then?

4. Does my system need some kind of ‘hard reset’ or do I need to cut off the electricity power on my fuse box?

Here below a full list of my settings

Anyone is free to give feedback, obviously…
Thanx in advance to the community for any feedback

			Official installation guide Samsung	Emmanuel setup
Code	Quiet mode	On/off	Disable	disable
		time	10pm - 06 am	10pm - 06 am
	Cool heat selection		Cool & heat	Cool & heat
	Master/slave wired remote		Master	Master
	Zone selection		Zone 1	Zone 1
	Standard temperature		Water outlet	Water outlet
	Temp unit		0.5°c	0.5°c
	Temperature sensor selection		Wired remote controler	Wired remote controler
	Room temp calibration	Reference	-	-
		Calib value	0°C	0°C
	Inder zone status information		All -	All -
	Connection information		all -	all -
1011	Water out temp cooling	max	25	25
1012	Water out temp cooling	min	16	18
1021	Room temp cooling	max	30	30
1022	Room temp cooling	min	18	18
1031	Water out temp heating	max	65	55
1032	Water out temp heating	min	25	25
1041	Room tepm heating	max	30	30
1042	Room tepm heating	min	16	16
1051	DHW tank temp	max	55	55
1052	DHW tank temp	min	40	40
2011	Waterlaw heating temp outside	Max point	-10	-3
2012	Waterlaw heating temp outside	Min point	15	17
2021	Waterlaw heating temp water flow	low target value	40	45
2022	Waterlaw heating temp water flow	high target value	25	30
2051	Waterlaw temp cooling temp outside	max point	30	35
2052	Waterlaw temp cooling temp outside	min point	40	25
2061	Waterlaw temp cooling water flow	low target value	25	21
2061	Waterlew temp cooling water flow	high target value	18	17
2081	Cooling water law selection		1 (WL1)	WL 1 floor
2091	External control	1 UFH	0(no)	not use
2092	External control	2 FCU	0(n)	not use
2093	Remote controler room temp control		4	room temp onoff or WL interilink on/off (waterpump 2)
3011	DMH tank		1	1
3021	Heat pump max temp		55	53
3022	Stop		0	0
3023	Start		5	7
2024	Min operating time		5	5
3025	Max DHW operation time		30	70
3026	Option interval (0.5h)		3	1.5h
3031	Booster heater		1(on)	on
3032	Delay time	min	20	50min
3033	Overshoot		0	0
4041	Disinfection one		1 (on)	On
3042	Start legionella			Wed
3043	Legionella start time			0400h
3044	Target temp legionella		70	60
3051	Forced DHW operation		0	Not use
3052	Time duration		6	60 min
3071	3 way valve		0	room/normal close
3081	Energy metering: Backup heater 1step capacity		2	2
3082	Energy metering: Backup heater 2step capacity		2	2
3083	Energy metering: Booster heater capacity		3	3
4011	Heating prio/DHW prio		0 (dhw)	DHW
4012	Low outdoor temp for heating prio		0	0
4013	Space heating off temp: heating of when higher outdoor temp		35	28
4021	Backup heater in hydro unit (1 = one stage en 2 = 2stage		0 (no)	Not use
4022	BUH/BSH prio		2	Booster heater
4023	Cold weather compensation		1 (yes)	yes
4024	Treshold temp		0	0
4025	Defros backup temp		15	15
4031	Back up boiler on off		0 (no)	not use
4032	Boiler prio		0 (no)	heat pump
4033	Treshold condition		-15	-15
4041	Mixing valve application		0(no)	not use
4042	Mixing valve target heating		10	10
4043	Mixing valve target cooling		10	10
4044	Mixing valve control factor		2	2
4045	Mixing valve control interval		2	2
4046	Mixing valve running time		9	90 sec
4051	Inverter pump		1	Use
4052	Inverter pump target D		5	5
4053	Inverter pump control factor		2	2
4061	Zone controle		0(no)	not use

[SteveSpanners (Steve Kendall)]

The Samsung documentation is very difficult to understand. Also there are lots of websites with incorrect information about setting up Water Law. I am not surprised you are confused.

My understanding (which works for my system) is that for both screens 201* and 202* the “high” and “low” are referring to the relative temperature of the water leaving the heatpump. Taking 201* as an example, the “high” water temperature is required when it is coldest outside, and a “low” water temperature when it is warmer outside. The settings in your photo are the correct way round and sensible values.
Moving on to 202* the “low” figure is the temperature of the water leaving the HP (when it isn’t too cold outside) and the “high” figure the temperature of the water leaving the HP on a very cold day. Again the settings in your photo are the correct way round, but I believe too big. I think you need to reduce both by at least 5 degrees for a well insulated house.

In your situation I would turn off as many additional features as possible, and focus on understanding/setting Water Law for heating. Turn off COOLING in service mode >Indoor Zone Option> Cool/Heat Selection. Disable the remote thermostat by changing #2091 and #2092 to NOT USED. (I think your #2093 is set correctly, but this is an area I haven’t investigated.) You may also wish to turn off DHW and Disinfection while experimenting.
Once you have Water Law operating correctly, reintroduce the extras.

[SarahH (Sarah Hanson)]

Hi @Emmanuel-W,

1. As for FSV#2011-2022, @SteveSpanners describes things very well. I found it helpful to mark up the graph in the manual as follows: I wrote “Winter settings” under #2011, “Summer settings” under #2012, my actual setting values for #2011/2012/2021/2022 alongside the relevant axes, added a “Target LWT” label to the Y-axis, and “+/-5degC adjustment” alongside the dotted lines.
2. On your FSV listing, you didn’t show your #2041 value. This defines which of the two heating zone WL configurations (WL1 or WL2) you wish to apply. For example, you may define WL1 as radiators and WL2 as UFH, or WL1 as upstairs rads and WL2 as downstairs rads. Normally you will set #2041 to whichever requires the higher LWT. (I believe that temperature control of the other less arduous zone is set up using #404x, but as I only have a single Heating zone I’ve never had to do this.) If you have only a single heating zone, just make sure that #2041 points to the correct WL (i.e. 2021/2 or 2031/2). (If you use just WL1 - #2021/2 - in which case #2031/2 will be ignored.)
3. If you have Cooling enabled (requires a separate roomstat to Heating, plus additional wiring in the controller - this is normally an optional extra which must be specified prior to installation), then you set up #2051-#2081 in an analogous way to #2011-#2041. Incidentally, in your FSV listing #2052 must be higher than #2051 - look at the little graph in the manual (and maybe mark the Cooling part up in a similar way to the Heating markup I suggest above). You can have up to 2 Cooling zones as well (#2061/2 or #2071/2).

Hope the above doesn’t confuse things further…

[Emmanuel-W (Emmanuel)]

@SteveSpanners I want to wait turning of cooling and legionella (scares the bejesus out of me that one). Thnx for confirming waterlaw screenshots, I reduced them as you suggested. 2091 and 2092 are off (not use- see list above). What other features do you mean that I should turn off (field settings)? Why would you turn off DHW, wouldn’t that reduce temperatures of my showers/bath to a point where it’s not confortable anymore? Please elaborate

@SarahH

1. What do you mean with added a target LWT (what does LWT stand for?) and where did ‘it’ add the target LWT? ← picture/screenshot?
2. 2041 added to the list. I only have one zone so I have selected WL1 floor for 2041/2081, based on your comment that should be correct I think.
3. We used cooling last summer without using a seperate roomstat. Cooling worked fine using only my MIM, it demanded an extreme energy from my system resulting high energy costs, but it did work. I rectified my error on the settings 2051/2052 (well spotted!), should be good now. Lowest temp I chose was 17 because I read somewhere that 16 or more is required to prevent internal floor condensation.
4. What about my setting for 2093; is that correct/optimal for me now you think? (see list below).

@MikeJH I can’t set my thermostat to 22, I can only +/- on water temp. I think that’s because of this setting: options → standard temperature → water outlet. Correct?

Open questions remaining:

1. For the water law cooling and heating combined; there is now a gap (heating untill 19°c outdoor temp, cooling starts at 25°c outdoor temp). What will my heatpump do between these 2 temperatures?
2. Does my system need some kind of ‘hard reset’ (= do I need to cut off/on the electricity power on my fuse box for (new) settings to work)?
3. Any other errors in my field settings that some one can spot?

The goal for me is:

1. I don’t have to touch my heatpump (apart from tweaking here and there) and can let it run automatically throughout the entire year (from -4°C to 30°c) in such a way that I achieve about 21°C in my living space.
2. It uses the most power when there is sun or when there is low energy cost (between 10am and 4pm and night time are low cost periods) so that my electricity costs are as low as possible.
3. My installation runs continuously as I have read everywhere that it is way better for the installation to run continuously than having an ‘on-off’-way of working.
4. My installation runs as efficiënt as possible within the above requirements

Thank you all for figuring this out with me!

Updated (field)settings list below:

			Official installation guide Samsung	Emmanuel setup
Code
	Quiet mode	On/off	Disable	disable
		time	10pm - 06 am	10pm - 06 am
	Cool heat selection		Cool & heat	Cool & heat
	Master/slave wired remote		Master	Master
	Zone selection		Zone 1	Zone 1
	Standard temperature		Water outlet	Water outlet
	Temp unit		0.5°c	0.5°c
	Temperature sensor selection		Wired remote controler	Wired remote controler
	Room temp calibration	Reference	-	-
		Calib value	0°C	0°C
	Inder zone status information		All -	All -
	Connection information		all -	all -
1011	Water out temp cooling	max	25	25
1012	Water out temp cooling	min	16	18
1021	Room temp cooling	max	30	30
1022	Room temp cooling	min	18	18
1031	Water out temp heating	max	65	55
1032	Water out temp heating	min	25	25
1041	Room tepm heating	max	30	30
1042	Room tepm heating	min	16	16
1051	DHW tank temp	max	55	55
1052	DHW tank temp	min	40	40
2011	Waterlaw heating temp outside	Max point (= high on MIM) - winter setting	-10	-3
2012	Waterlaw heating temp outside	Min point (=low on MIM) - summer setting	15	19
2021	Waterlaw heating temp water flow	Max point (=low target value on MIM) - winter setting	40	38
2022	Waterlaw heating temp water flow	Min point (=high target value on MIM) - summer setting	25	23
2041	Heating waterlaw for auto mode	Water law type	WL1	WL1-Floor
2051	Waterlaw temp cooling temp outside	max point (=low on MIM) - low heat	30	25
2052	Waterlaw temp cooling temp outside	min point (=high on MIM) - high heat	40	35
2061	Waterlaw temp cooling water flow	Max point (=low target value on MIM) - low heat	25	21
2062	Waterlew temp cooling water flow	Min point (=high target value on MIM) - high heat	18	17
2081	Cooling water law selection	Water law type	1 (WL1)	WL 1 floor
2091	External control	1 UFH	0(no)	not use
2092	External control	2 FCU	0(n)	not use
2093	Remote controler room temp control		4	room temp onoff or WL interilink on/off (waterpump 2)
3011	DMH tank		1	1
3021	Heat pump max temp		55	53
3022	Stop		0	0
3023	Start		5	7
2024	Min operating time		5	5
3025	Max DHW operation time		30	70
3026	Option interval (0.5h)		3	1.5h
3031	Booster heater		1(on)	on
3032	Delay time	min	20	50min
3033	Overshoot		0	0
4041	Disinfection one		1 (on)	On
3042	Start legionella			Wed
3043	Legionella start time			0400h
3044	Target temp legionella		70	60
3051	Forced DHW operation		0	Not use
3052	Time duration		6	60 min
3071	3 way valve		0	room/normal close
3081	Energy metering: Backup heater 1step capacity		2	2
3082	Energy metering: Backup heater 2step capacity		2	2
3083	Energy metering: Booster heater capacity		3	3
4011	Heating prio/DHW prio		0 (dhw)	DHW
4012	Low outdoor temp for heating prio		0	0
4013	Space heating off temp: heating of when higher outdoor temp		35	28
4021	Backup heater in hydro unit (1 = one stage en 2 = 2stage		0 (no)	Not use
4022	BUH/BSH prio		2	Booster heater
4023	Cold weather compensation		1 (yes)	yes
4024	Treshold temp		0	0
4025	Defros backup temp		15	15
4031	Back up boiler on off		0 (no)	not use
4032	Boiler prio		0 (no)	heat pump
4033	Treshold condition		-15	-15
4041	Mixing valve application		0(no)	not use
4042	Mixing valve target heating		10	10
4043	Mixing valve target cooling		10	10
4044	Mixing valve control factor		2	2
4045	Mixing valve control interval		2	2
4046	Mixing valve running time		9	90 sec
4051	Inverter pump		1	Use
4052	Inverter pump target D		5	5
4053	Inverter pump control factor		2	2
4061	Zone controle		0(no)	not use

[SteveSpanners (Steve Kendall)]

I suggested turning off DHW and Disinfection, so that you could focus on getting the heating running efficiently. With the DHW and Disinfection OFF there is no chance that would turn on automatically and confuse your investigation.
Getting the correct values for Water Law will take lots of experimentation at different times of the year until you get it right. There is no quick fix. Once I got our system operating perfectly, it runs without a thermostat, at 20 deg internal temperature, all the time from approximately mid October to mid April. At the start and end of this period the solar gain has an increased effect and the HP is not needed.

Regarding the Legionella cycle, your setting of 60 degrees is probably too low to do any good, it will not kill the bugs. On my system the Legionella cycle is permanently switched OFF. The risk of Legionella is much higher in a commercial hot water system, where the water is circulated round a system rather than going straight from cylinder to tap. Also we have baths rather than showers so there is minimal chance of breathing in water droplets.

Others can advise on how to make the best use of cheaper rate electricity, but I think you need to get the Water Law sorted first.

[SteveSpanners (Steve Kendall)]

Just done a bit of research and your 60 deg is probably OK. You need to balance the risk of Legionella and scalding.

[Timbones (Tim)]

A good explanation here → Hot Water Temperature - Scalding and Legionella - HeatGeek

[MikeJH (Mike Heap)]

@Emmanuel-W

@MikeJH I can’t set my thermostat to 22, I can only +/- on water temp. I think that’s because of this setting: options → standard temperature → water outlet. Correct?

Your original screenshot showed that you were using the controller in ‘indoor temperature’ mode. This is the correct mode to use.

You need to set standard temperature to indoor. That will allow the heat pump to operate in Water Law (Samsung speak for weather compensation). If you set your thermostat higher than normal, the heat pump will keep running and will choose the LWT (Leaving Water Temperature) (labelled Water Outlet in the photo) that is appropriate for the current outside temperature. If you have your water law settings correct, then your indoor temperature should sit around 21C. If it goes above this you need to reduce your water law settings and vice versa. As @SteveSpanners says, to get the settings right can take some time.

202* high target value of 45C

is probably too high if you have underfloor heating and a well insulated home. Just in case Samsung gets confused, I always set 202* and 203* to the same values.

If you have standard temperature set on water outlet as in the photo below, then there is no weather compensation and so this mode is rarely used. You need to change to Indoor Temperature mode.

[SarahH (Sarah Hanson)]

Hi again.

@Emmanuel-W

1. What do you mean with added a target LWT (what does LWT stand for?) and where did ‘it’ add the target LWT?

Sorry, my English isn’t perfect either… I was just referring to the scribbles I made on the Water Law graph in my manual to help me understand the Water Law concept. To add to @MikeJH’s explanation, “LWT” = the water (or glycol) temperature leaving the Outdoor Unit, which is usually only slightly above that arriving at your radiators. (“RWT” is used for Returning Water Temperature – hopefully you can guess which point that refers to.)

@Emmanuel-W

2. 2041 added to the list. I only have one zone so I have selected WL1 floor for 2041/2081, based on your comment that should be correct I think.

That’s OK (at least for #2041).

@Emmanuel-W

3. We used cooling last summer without using a seperate roomstat. Cooling worked fine using only my MIM, it demanded an extreme energy from my system resulting high energy costs, but it did work. I rectified my error on the settings 2051/2052 (well spotted!), should be good now. Lowest temp I chose was 17 because I read somewhere that 16 or more is required to prevent internal floor condensation.

Yes things are different if you don’t use the Samsung Remote Controller for room temperature control (like me - I use a third party roomstat, in which case a second roomstat would be required for Cooling).

@Emmanuel-W

4. What about my setting for 2093; is that correct/optimal for me now you think? (see list below).

Looks fine to me.

@Emmanuel-W

1. For the water law cooling and heating combined; there is now a gap (heating untill 19°c outdoor temp, cooling starts at 25°c outdoor temp). What will my heatpump do between these 2 temperatures?

I’m guessing that the heat pump will do nothing (though the water circulating pump may continue operating). But that’s only a guess…

@Emmanuel-W

2. Does my system need some kind of ‘hard reset’ (= do I need to cut off/on the electricity power on my fuse box for (new) settings to work)?

I’ve never had to reset after FSV changes, so I think the answer is probably “no”.

@Emmanuel-W

3. Any other errors in my field settings that some one can spot?

Can’t see anything obvious.