Hi all, I’m really sorry if I’m repeating what is already elsewhere, but I did have a look and couldn’t find it.
I know lots of people have explained what the different settings in 2091 and 2092 do (I’m not looking at 2093 as I’m using third party stats, not the one in the controller) and I understand what they do in theory, but I think the bit I’m missing is “so what does that actually mean?”.
I obviously won’t have them set to Do Not Use as I do need to use them, but of the other options is one better than the others in terms of either cost or wear and tear on the system?
Essentially I understand the words but I don’t know what they are telling me. Any help much appreciated. @SarahH if I remember rightly you’ve got a similar system to me using third party stats? I did find (and now can’t find) one of your excellent explanations of how it all works, but I’m not sure I got the “so what does that mean?” bit.
At the moment I have 2091 set to Use (Signal ON/OFF) or WL Interlink OFF(Water Pump3); 2092 set to Not Use (as I only have one zone).
There a 5 distinct settings, which unhelpfully Samsung refer to as settings 0-4 in their manual, but assign label names in the FSV fields which also contain numbers that do not align (no wonder we all get confused!).
0: Not Used
1: On/Off by thermostat only
2-4 are then named/labelled as:
2: Water Pump 1
3: Water Pump 2
4: Water Pump 3
settings 2-4 will allow WL to turn the compressor on/off based on flow temperatures (as well as the room thermostat), AND will define and control how the water circulation pump(s) behave when the compressor is turned off during cycling.
Setting 2 (labelled Water Pump 1) will just turn the water pump(s) off when the compressor is off (and back on again when the compressor starts up again)
Setting 3 (labelled Water Pump 2) will leave the water pump(s) on and running as long as the room thermostat remains active (call for heat).
Setting 4 (labelled Water Pump 3) will run the water pump(s) for 7mins off and then 3mins on (running) as long as the compressor remains off.
One would imagine you would want the water pumps to remain running (at least some of the time) so the heat pump can determine when the flow temps have reduced enough to warrant restarting the compressor. Otherwise (setting 2) you are just measuring the temperature of static water in a pipe and waiting for it to cool before restarting the compressor.
Hi @Kate.
I think part of the answer to your “so what does that mean?” question may be found in Samsung Gen 6 R32 5kW + Sunamp Thermino (plenty of questions inside) - #8 by SarahH.
My comments at the time were aimed at a WRC roomstat (so #2093) but apply equally to a third party roomstat like yours (so #2091).
Happy to expand on this if you are still troubled…
Bingo. Between you @Old_Scientist and @SarahH you’ve nailed exactly what I was after. Thank you.
Copying an edited version of the info from your post in the other thread Sarah into here in case someone comes here looking for the info. Hope that’s ok.
2091/2092 set to:
Setting 2 (labelled Water Pump 1) will just turn the water pump(s) off when the compressor is off (and back on again when the compressor starts up again). This will result in radiators (and thus the house) cooling more quickly, but saves pump energy.
Setting 3 (labelled Water Pump 2) will leave the water pump(s) on and running as long as the room thermostat remains active (call for heat). This will reduce LWT faster, so reaching the hysterisis temperature quicker and increasing the cycling rate. It will use more pump energy, but results in a more even heat flow in the house.
Setting 4 (labelled Water Pump 3) will run the water pump(s) for 7mins off and then 3mins on (running) as long as the compressor remains off. This we think is Samsung offering the best of both worlds through cycling the pump (and as I’ve learnt from another post, cycling the pump is not an issue as frequent cycling of the compressor would be).
I’m on Setting 4 at the moment, but I’m intrigued to see what happens if I switch to Setting 2. I probably need to wait until it’s a bit colder to really see the impact on how cold the house might get during that time. An experiment for a later date.
Having it on setting 2 potentially opens the door for the heat pump to perform AF (anti-frost) cycles when the compressor is not running and the outdoor temperature is below 5 degrees. The AF cycles periodically run the circulating pump and open the diverter valve at the same time to keep warm water flowing through the pipes, but this gradually pulls all of the heat from the hot water cylinder, which then needs to be reheated inefficiently.
Keeping it on setting 4 prevents this as the AF cycles are based on when the circulating pump last ran. But as it runs every 10 minutes on setting 4, this is enough to prevent it running AF cycles.
That’s useful to know, thanks Jake. I’ll probably leave it as it is then. The system seems to be working fine. I think I have it as optimised as I can with our setup. I just like to understand how things work. I was the same when we had a boiler.