Hi David, I have one or two possible answers to your questions, though your controller is slightly different to mine (MIM-E03EN, which doesn’t have an FSV #1061, for example, and it may be that other differences may invalidate my comments below).
- It doesn’t matter whether you set #2021/2 (WL1) or #2031/2 (WL2) for radiators, as long as #2041 is set to your chosen WL. In other words, the terms “UFH” and “FCU” in the manual are arbitrary and interchangeable. (The same comment applies to the two cooling WLs per #2051-2081.)
- I agree that the manual hasn’t survived translation from Korean very well. In particular, the descriptions of #2091/2 are confusing, with the reference to “Pump 1” on the display corresponding to setting “2” in the description, similarly “Pump 2” to “3” and “Pump 3” to “4”. You have “Pump 3” (i.e. setting 4) which cycles the water pump off-on every 3/7 minutes. I hope this addresses your Question 6.
- You only need to set #2091/2 if you have a 3rd party roomstat (your Hive). If you had used the roomstat built into the controller remote display, you would have set #2091/2 to “not use” and set #2093 accordingly.
- As you only have one heating zone (your radiators) on WL1, #2092 is irrelevant, and “not use” is correct.
- As you do have a remote roomstat, #2093 is also irrelevant and the controller ignores any setting. This I hope answers your Question 1.
- Once you have enabled weather compensation, the compressor is switched off when LWT reaches the WL target, and on again when LWT falls “by about 2K”. This was the Samsung UK Tech Helpline answer to my similar question to them, suggesting that the controller hysteresis is ~2degC. Having said that, it sounds like Samsung may have added the ability to vary this (#1061) on your controller.
- So the answer to your Question 2a) is “yes” - the compressor will run until either target WL temp (if enabled) or target roomstat temp are achieved, whichever happens first.
- Per the above, the compressor starts again when either the WL (LWT) hysteresis or the roomstat hysteresis occur, again whichever happens first. There is also a safety timer, at least in the MIM-E03EN which prevents restart in less than 5 minutes (info from the Helpline). Hopefully this answers your Question 2b).
- The manuals available for my HTQ series HP (which isn’t actually Gen 7 - my initial thread title was changed by the Admins) were given in my original post at the top of this thread. Unfortunately (for you) the equivalent manuals for the R290 Gen7 don’t seem to be available, so for your Question 3 I can only suggest that you see what is available on the Midsummer Wholesale website.
- Can’t help with Question 4 beyond saying that (by my terminology) the controller (the MIM - a box about 12" square with a removable front) may be installed integral with an Samsung Indoor Unit (which it sounds like you have - incorporating a DHW tank and water circulating pump), or standalone installed somewhere that is protected from the weather, along with a wired remote display (a little box about 4" square) which you access for entering setpoints and FSVs and reading current measurements (and which contains a wired roomstat as noted above for #2093 use).
- I think Question 5 is answered above - you are correct.
- Your compressor on-off timings and temperatures sound like your Hive output may be conflicting with your MIM if it’s TPI. I’ve discussed this on another thread Struggling with performance of Samsung Heat Pump - #36 by SarahH but if its cycle time is too short the MIM behaves unpredictably. I had to change the factory settings in my Honeywell TPI roomstat to fix it.
Hope the above helps you a little…
Regards,
Sarah