For access to all of the settings in the MMI go to user profile and use the code 5678. This will unlock the installer menus and extra options.
The installer reference guide will explain all of these and is available from Daikin’s website.
When finished go back to user profile and set 1234 for advanced user.
Also make a note of all changes so you can revert them back if it goes wrong or in the installers menu page use the export MMI settings option (you will need a usb stick plugged into the controller but can export and save / share all settings).
Hi, happy to help if I can, here is the MMI guide to help with the parameters and menu tree, D series MMi.pdf (5.2 MB)
1st start with the WDC and then tweak the modulation, it goes without saying make one change and see the results, its tricky in the UK as it all depends on the outside temps, as from one day to the next could swing 10 degrees, and may take a few weeks to settle on a good profile for your house.
If you are using Madoka for thermostat control, rather than leaving water temp only, then I suggest you go into the Madoka settings and reduce the brightness of the screen and the blue ring light that indicates the heating is running.
I reckon the LEDs affect the reported temperature by at least 1C compared to local ambient. I’ve configured a -1C offset in the MMI for this.
In the case of the blue ring light, I was seeing a very quick drop of -0.5C as soon as soon the heating switched off. It played havoc with the thermostat control when I disabled modulation.
I’ve seen more consistent readings since changing these settings. I’ve turned it down until the values are just visible in daylight. There is also a “hotel mode” that switches off the backlight and blue light. I haven’t enabled that as I do like to be able to see the current temperature
Hi @squarepeg77 Jonathan, this is an excellent call, its incredible the Madoka was given a design award, negating the function of the unit….
I have made the changes, all lowest brightness on the Madoka, its even resulted in longer cycles and a continuous COP around 5 (outside 5 – 8), our HP has not stopped (ie reached room set temp) since it started yesterday, we have a steady hovering 21-degree room temp (set to 20) knowing it will stop the HP at 21.5…its really improved the modulation effect.
I did see an article of someone cutting a small hole in the bottom of the Madoka to enable the sensor to be exposed outside the case, but I cannot find it again to share.
@squarepeg77 you know what, I thought it was just mine that did this…its a terrible issue given its’ function and why I can’t use it.
I had discovered this about a year ago, and turned the blue light it down to lowest setting and it is still really obvious something is not right as minutes after heating switched on, the indoor temp rises before any real heat delivered from the heating system!
I’d quite like to go back to Madoka control, as I’m a little uneasy relying on cloud functionality to turn the heating on and off. (I’m now using leaving water temp with Home Assistant temperature control.)
However I really need 0.5C control in the Madoka schedule, not 1C. It’s silly that you can offset by 0.5C, but not set a schedule with a 17.5C target temperature.
BTW I have turned down all the brightness on the madoka, LED and backlight etc with an offset of -0.5 to give a really accurate measurement, I have other sensors that confirm this is good!
I have picked up a little config gem that I think works thanks @KnightPhoenix, after just one change setting the DT to 3 - after one heat cycle with similar outside temps the COP appears smoother and higher -
For my 9kW, I’ve found that lowering dT from 5C to 4C enables the flow rate to get above the minimum 10.7l/min more often.
I think (speculate!) this then enables the heat pump to modulate heat output by changing flow rate instead of having to vary compressor power, because flow rate is at the floor.
I’ve been running with dT 5C for a while, but your post reminded me to go back to 4C! I don’t think I’d tolerate 3C, that would probably give more noticeable noise from some of our lock shields.
It played havoc with the thermostat control when I disabled modulation.
