I hope you understand the scheme, I don’t use kidcad well
The potentiometer is to adjust the divider well. Although not necessary, by adjusting the multiplier value in the current monitor settings.
I’m not a programmer. Just an electronics enthusiast.
The code is experimental.
https://github.com/botaneta/diyBMSv4ESP32/tree/pylonhv/ESPController
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Hallo,
I found that old post and it is exactly what I am about to build.
There is a project from a guy called “DalaTheGreat”. He wrote an emulator to connect Car Batteries to Fronius inverters. And this works. So he reverse engineered the modbus protocol from a Fronius inverter. His emu runs on a lilygo board for €17. Based on this I want to modify Dalas code to interface diyBMS CAN to Fronius Modbus.
Did anyone already do some research how to interface the CAN of Diybms to Fronius modbus?
Anyone interested in joining in this plan?
Best regards
Florian
Hallo,
can you help me withe the Pre Charge. I have Build many Batteries and the Relay Controlled withe a seperate controller. How can it config withe Relay1 and Relay2?
Hello Stuart,
i used many id 3 Battery and i have also the original CMU from VW and i see that the can bus is hacked.
See here:
or GRNbms from Pro-Lox
I can create one more can transresiver and the best is i change the bms between your and the vw id3. I can also pay for your work if you make it.
Best Regards Michael
Hello again,
I will you sent for interesting my own design for ID3 Batterie. I have insert the Self-healing resistor.
Let me now what do you think?
Florian, this thread may give you a good start on a CAN to 485 transceiver.
Sorry for the delay. Life with a young family.
JLCPCB soldered all the SMD parts. I examined each connection with a microscope and they all looked fine. Maybe a bad batch of TCA6416 or I did something to all of them as I was batch-preparing them. The only thing I know I did differently this time vs previous versions is solder sw1 and sw2. Also note d6 is not soldered. Can I leave both d1 and d6 off without problems?
I bought 5 more controllers along with 10 all-in-one modules and 5 passive balancers. As soon as I get this batch soldered-up and the last batch working I will keep 4 and have 6 controllers available to your patreons for the cost of shipping. I will have some v4.21 & v4.4 modules (maybe 50 working, others wired backward but fixable if people are interested) and a couple of all-in-ones available for the cost of shipping, too. (I am in the US)
Another question: My normal cells are LFP, so my all-in-one modules are referenced to 4.096V. My benchtop test system is a battery made from non-LFP 18650 cells. If anyone has suggestions to test the system properly with these different chemistries or problems to look out for, will you please educate me?
try lowering all the cell voltages to 3.5v that is where you lfp will be close to max right?
Will do. I gather that the general advice is to pretend they are LFP cells when I set the settings. Do you happen to know if a fully-charged 18650 will damage the all-in-one that is referenced to 4.096v?
You don’t need the LED at all - so if you do decide to add one, only populate EITHER D1 or D6, not both.
Just discharge the 18650 to below 4.096V before testing, if you only charge them up to 4V then the lower reference would work just fine. If the voltage goes above 4.096V, you will just see the cell as 4.096V, but won’t damage the board/chips (they can take up to 5V per cell)
Hello, please help.
I am not able to program attiny. It get this error message.
I have try, two boards, two ESP, 3 modules
thank you
Hi, the controller can only program the older attiny chips using the 6 pin header.
The newer module uses a different chip and needs an UPDI program.
This can be built very simply using a usb to SERIAL adapter.
Didn’t you mean SERIAL?
damn, autocorrect !
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Thank you, I do not understand it much.
I have USB to UART only. It has CP210x, is it usable?
Yes, you can use that.
It works, thank you
Hi Stuart,
unfortunately I’ve found no way to PM you directly.
I just have a question about your projects:
Have you ever thought about monitoring 4 cells with a single ds18b20 ?
So you can temp monitor a whole DIY powerpack with many cells and just a few ds18b20.
The ds18b20 are 1-wire devs and can mounted very easily in the gap between 4 cells.
Maybe that would be an interesting feature for your DIYBMS ?
You could monitor the temps and push them into a MQTT msg and provide automated security features before a cell will have a thermal runaway or if a cell will become a heater cell…
If there is some abnormal temps there could be automatic shutdown of the powerpack or just a notify (MQTT2externalmsg or MQTT2Event (turning on a lamp)).
I think such ds18b20 in a powerpack can provide a better security level for us all.
What do you think about that ?
–
Kind regards
Atratus
[A subsequent post refers: DIYBMS v4 - #5577 by Atratus]