DIYBMS v4

Hi, there isn’t a problem with communications, if you take a look at the forum posts, these have generally been resolved by the end user using twisted cabling or similar - normally an issue with the installation and local interference.

@stuart ,

JLCPCB is great, but sometimes greatly confusing.

To my understanding LCSC and JLCPCB are the same company, use the same part numbers but don’t share stock??

Lcsc# C693260 (AO3401A)
C440263 (SMBJ5.0A) and
C84139 (AZ432ANTR-E1)

Are widely available on LCSC but out of stock on JLCPCB??

If they aren’t matched, any ideas on how to get JLCPCB to order from LCSC???
Or better order directly from them??

Unfortunately not, you can drop them an email, but no idea if it will help. You normally just have to wait for stock to arrive/transfer.

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It will increase the costs a little bit, on 40 cell PCB and 2 controllers (together +/- $170 with missing parts) and the parts (few extra) are $30 (excluding attiny841)
That include the $16 and $17,- transport.

What other parts are needed for the new controller boards?
Relays, I think?

Can the ones from standard 4 relay bank user with the older controller board be used?

Edit:
I just looked at the GitHub BOM
“Through Hole Component List”

Clear enough.

The attiny isn’t to be used?
For what I could tell from your video it’s the source for copies of the cell module??
I could be wrong.

Edit 2:
The 3 components above, are they doable for hand soldering???

During my first order I made mistake not to order the thermistors in the center of the resistors.
So needed to solder them later on.

That was bad.
Really bad. Even with microscope.

It takes me about an hour to get it in, without too much solder, and confirmed contact.

Needless to say that several of those now give Falce readings (they got too hot)
And need to be replaced…

Can it work with sensor that say 7 when it is 29c?

I have now 4 I need to re-do…
Sigh.

a silly question how to reactivate the screen when inside the DIN rail box. Look how beautiful she is.

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Quick question:
The 3.3 ohm 3/4 watt resistors are out of stock, but the 0.5W, same size (2010) is available.

Alternative is to solder by hand, as LCSC again have more then enough stock :slight_smile:

Edit:
I choose to solder by hand.
2010 isn’t difficult to do, and I now have the right equipment to do so.
(Heat gun for SMD)

is somebody using this BMS with an electric vehicle ?
which are the volts range could be used ? (some good modules from BMW , VW, are 22v and more… 6s2p)

The AZ432 may never come back in stock since it has been marked “not recommended for new designs” by the manufacturer: https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/products_inactive_data/AZ432.pdf

Are you using heat gun or soldering iron? Heat gun with solder paste should be lot easier.

I’m now using a heat gun, it can be set from 100 to + 400 Celcius and 10 different air speeds.

Solder paste, I like a lot.
Better then solder wire!

The first type I received had a needle but was way to thick to be used like that (perhaps old)
The second one came also in syringue, but I needed to cut open the top, thicker then cold peanut butter.
Now i have a jar, that is nice thin.
No syringe with correct needle to use it.

It ain’t easy to find workable product!!!

→ rural Thailand, no RadioShack, Amazon charges +$25 just for transport and tax for a small light, envelope size $6.5 product, so that is not an option.
Silicone awg22 wire? $9 per meter (1 strand) local available online pricing…
Really absurd, what I refuse to pay/order.

Apparently I need to buy some of the first solder, get it out and replace it with the one in the jar.
Amazing Thailand…

Problem!!

PCB can not build the new 4.40 controller boards.

They claim it have v-cut, something they don’t support.

No it doesn’t!! Tell them it’s mouse bites and to look at the drilling files.

I’ve already have several of those boards made!!

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yes, you are correct.

when you panelize the boards, I made 4x2, it magically changes.
I needed 40 boards, now i ordered 50.
good thing they are cheap!

i tried different sd card reader as the one you chose is out of stock, that one didn’t fit… (U11)
not a problem, i ordered different from LCSC and solder manually.

The F1 and D1 seem to have a problem flagged.
They can fit and will be soldered, perhaps the files can be updated to prevent JLCPCB to think they are wrong?

I’ll take a look at those pad spacing issues.

Jlc seem to change their minds on this based on what engineering person looks at the board!

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had the same warnings on F1 but no problems for them to built, but they soldered F1 very bad i had to manualy solder it one more time with bit more solder.

not a real problem

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Hi,
what is the difference between the versions:
module_fw_V421_attiny841_421_eF4_hD6_l62.hex
and
module_fw_V421_LTO_attiny841_421_eF4_hD6_l62.hex
?
I flashed the LTO version with the new controller and now my voltage display is no longer correct. I can calibrate this in the settings, but with one module I’m already at the calibration multiplier 5 and it still shows too little.

Its for Lithium Titanate cells. Those only have 2.8 V

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Please be careful with the firmware. They are designed for specific boards and chips, using the wrong one can brick the attiny chip, and it’s a real pain to make it work again!

Hello hope everyone is doing well. Trying to program the modules. Have been reading and searching this thread for acouple of days without luck. Cant used Visual Studio full of errors gave up, the opted for using via cmd avrdude but keep receiving this error:

avrdude -C avrdude.conf -P usb -c usbasp -p t841
error at avrdude.conf:332 unrecognized character: “d”
Cant find out how to solve it.

Searching in this thread found about avrdudess with this program could write to module successfully but when reading gives me this error:

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 11.05s

avrdude.exe: verifying …
avrdude.exe: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x0000
0xff != 0x4b
avrdude.exe: verification error; content mismatch

Any help would be appreciate. Thanks in advance.