DIYBMS v4

I’m preparing to build some myself, and in reading this, and looking for these units, I looked throught the datasheets to find out what the difference is between “-SSU” and “-U”.
Looking at the datasheet for “Attiny841” and looking in the ordering information, there’s nothing called “-U”. I think the the “SS” in “-SSU” refers to the package type, and since it’s easy to see if it’s a SOIC (SS), or QFN (M), there’s no reason to print it on the chip (at least I think that this is the case - please don’t hesitate to correct me if I’m wrong, I just can’t find any Attiny841 datasheets where “-U” is an option).

We already clarified that it was a misunderstanding, ask for your ATTINY SSU and you will not have any problem

Hi Fam, So after ordering my new parts I am running into some availability issues for some of the chips…Some of which I simply cant find. So do Any of you magnificent folk have any available?

  • CA45-A010M226T 8

  • AQY212GSZ 4

  • TCA6408APWR 2

  • TCA9534APWR 2

  • TJA1057GT/3J 2

The above Are parts I just cant seem to find, but Im also looking for the below, so If anyone has all of these, Id greatly appreciate being able to buy everything from you.

  • ATTINY841-SSU 20
  • ATTINY1614-SSNR 5
  • ADM2483BRWZ 5
  • LM5009AMMX/NOPB 6

can anyone tell me if I can replace these with something else ? A quick search tells me I can get alot of capacitors with these (22uF ±20% 10V 3 Ω @ 100kHz -55℃~125℃) Characteristics, but seeing as Im not sure, any response would be great.

Hello guys,

I dont know if this post end up in the right place, hope so.

is there any table that shows which controller boards are compatible with which cell modules?
And also which module firmware is compatible to the controller version?

With the growing number of different boards it gets confusing.

:face_with_raised_eyebrow: :grin:

all controllers control what ever versions of the cell modules it doesnt matter if its the v4 or the 4.2 controller they work with all modules even mix and match

I just got my PCB’s from JLCPCB the other day and on trying to build i think that they reversed the SD card holder.

Is it critical or should i still be able to power up the system and get basic testing done.

The other thing i noticed is that the SD card seems to be slightly bigger than the end of the SD card holder so it seems that it wont insert (Ignoring the holder being around the wrong way)

Thanks

Davey

see the little arrows on the sd reader slide it that way and the metal bit flips up, then place the sd card inside and then close it back down and slide it back again

Well i feel stupid :slight_smile: it took a lot of force to get it to open at first. Thank you.

In testing i found something i did not encounter before; when my modules start balancing the voltage of those modules but also the others seem to be rising. Although the cable from battery to module are 75 cm (0.5mm²) i have had longer cables and not this problemen. The cables go from battery to pt 2.5 blocks and then to module. I have twisted positive from one cell to negative of the next cell. Should I use thicker cable to the pt blocks or do I need to use dedicated cable per module?


1 Like

I found this component finder. It helped me to locate the LM5009 (which I want to repair to a friend) although later I could not buy them in Arrow (USA) because they only sell to Companies that can buy without VAT and I am a natural person, maybe I can help you to locate some of the components that are costing so much to obtain.

1 Like

Because of the type of batteries you use, it seems, I am not sure that you share wires between cells, that is, each cell does not have an independent positive and negative, if this is so, what you appreciate is a consequence already described, on the common negative. When starting to discharge, the discharge cable increases its resistance, modifying the reading of the next cell and causing this cascade reaction.
I think that in Battrium (I’m not sure) they solve this issue with software correction and change in the sampling of the readings, I don’t know very well how they do it, but in DIYBMS you have to use independent cables for each of the cells to avoid it.

1 Like

Thanks! I will do that and test some more :wink:

Be careful, people

a seller on ali express under the name automobile house Store

selling fake TCA9534APWR chips, i needed one more to complete a board and they come in 10’s all dont work

what i noticed on orignals is pin 1 is a dimple in the chip and on these fakes its a printed white dot.


I’m very sorry, the truth is that leaving proven suppliers is a very risky sport.

The new version of the board to connect 16 v4.4 modules is already available. I don’t know what is the best way to share it

2 Likes

what is different compared to your old layout?
on the front is a bug with stuarts name :wink:

minor changes, correction of labeling in temperature sensors, correction in RX and TX connectors (with the previous model of connector at 90º) the cables were wrong (crossed) I have added two additional holes for fastening in the center (before only in the 4 extremes) and add the correction to Stuart’s last name.

Thanks

I am also bougth that fake chips from same seller. My opinion that is remarked TCA9534. I am solder only that chip to PCB, then run I2c scanner and it found a chip with address 0x20.
Cut PCB lane between 2 and 3 pins and connected 1 pin to a VCC a nearest capacitor. After this manipulation chip start to answer to 0x23 I2C address. Little change in definition “#define TCA9534APWR_ADDRESS 0x38” to 0x23, compile, flash, and voila.