Wifi settings are lost seemingly ramdom and without pressing the boot button. I’ll check the led color if it happens again.
On the controller board, it was the optocoupler wrong orientation causing the communication problem with the battery modules.
But there were also some faulty battery modules that I’ll need to check.
The wifi resetting to default seems to be related to the ESP32. @stuart said it could be caused by the boot button. But I’m not sure if he was referring to using the button to reboot the controller.
It has happened again a couple of times after turning the power off. The led was lighting white or very light and bright blue when that happened.
Yes thats it - I’ll have to disable this in code, it seems people are running into this problem more and more. The other time it happens is if you leave a module connected to the AVR programmer port and reboot the ESP (or power on/off).
I’ve created an issue for it Wifi Settings lost via "BOOT" button randomly · Issue #12 · stuartpittaway/diyBMSv4ESP32 · GitHub
Can anyone help me with getting Grafana setup with the DIYBMS?
*** Main Question:
In the DIYBMS controller settings there is a check box to enable MQTT and/or Influxdb. Is the DIYBMS already logging the information or just broadcasting information and I need to set up an influxdb database myself?
Or if anybody could explain to me point me in the direction of a video or tutorial of someone setting up a grafana dashboard for the DIYBMS ID appreciate it
Have you seen this thread?
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My PCB’S arrived today! Yeey!!
Partly populated as JLCPCB didn’t have all the parts needed.
Their mama (sister?) Company LSCS did (almost)
Attiny841 and dumpload resistors will be easy.
D1… A challenge.
I have 138c solder paste, and intended to bake at 150C.
If all is correct the other parts will have absolutely no problems from this 150C.
Later by hand the pin headers.
@stuart , I have a pile of “round head” thermistors with long thin legs that I intend to use for external temperature sensor.
Do I need to separate the PCB lines or will it just give the highest temperature if 2 sensors are connected?
(The break-off tiny PCB seems to be fully connected to the external temperature sensor header, unless broken off)
To get all 5 controllers populated (with the available parts) was just $8 extra.
The SD card slot was a challenge, LSCS didn’t have stock, JLCPCB didn’t have.
Eventually I found the right ones at RS-Components.
Not sure if they are mostly Asia based.
A lot cheaper then Digikey or Mouser, with similar quality products.
Attiny841 loads available, @$1.06
(33.262 THB)
Let the fun begin!!
(And I hope less defective units then last time.
Soldering attiny by hand isn’t one of the things you should let me do.
I kill about 10% 
Solder paste might make all the difference!
Suggestions for applying the paste?
I thought a toothpick would be easy.
The stuff is quite thick, with a needle I am not able to leave a small dab.
Hi guys,
I just received my esp32 boards but don’t have the controller pcb yet.
I flashed the esp32 with the firmware and that works.
But i keep getting an error when i go to putty “esp error check without abort failed”.
My question is : is it possible to configure the esp32 and wifi settings without the controller or is the controller needed for it to boot ?
I also have the lcd screen for it.
Thank you
I wish you lots of strength and luck, if the attiny is difficult for you the smaller parts are definitely. A tip from my side do not bake your boards. Use small dots of solderpaste put a component in place hold it with one hand and just briefly touch 1 pin with your smallest soldering iron.
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The controller code first does a self check to find the other parts of the system, as it can’t find them it stops and reports an error.
Not much you can do until the PCB arrives
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Hey guys, putting together my modules as I wait for my batteries to arrive and the one I put together today isn’t displaying cell temp. How can I troubleshoot this? Thanks!
Thank you for the reply, i will have to order the pcb this week.
It seems like one cell module have lost its contact with the external temperature sensor.
If you use the 4.4 module, it is intended to be broken off placed at the battery and use a wire to measure.
If still in the board, the pathways might have gotten damaged.
Not a biggy.
The small breakout board have place for pin header, Just like “external temperature”.
You can solder the headers and place a wire, even if you don’t break out.
Thanks for the tip.
I still will try first the baking method.
Attiny isn’t difficult, I just have failures.
I’ve done on 30 X 4.21 boards the R19, (thermistor 0402 size)
That was difficult.
Biggest work is to make the solder paste dabs.
Then place the components.
Dumpload resistors, 9 of them.
The attiny and challenging, D1.
Not as small as the R19, but still.
Attiny is easy to keep in place, and after the fist leg, a little bit moving hand, isn’t a real problem.
The resistors probably will go easy also, D1… Not.
If I can manage without touching after placing the parts, especially D1, that’s a huge plus.
Soldering the R19 was hard.
When you think it sticks to the board, it sticks to the soldering iron (pointy tip)
Or to the tweezers…
Later I used needle, awg30, that went little better.
Still, often got stuck to that one…
If you have soldered on the external temperature JST plug, you may have shorted the two pins, this would give a zero reading as well.
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Can you use 2 thermistors on the same contact?
Will it give errors (wrong values) or show the highest value?
I like to use external temperature sensor, and keep the break-off board in place.
Will this be a problem?
Yes it will be a problem, only two thermistors are supported.
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Want to give the DIYBMS a go, but seems like jlpcb is out of C270971. Any suggestions for replacements?
C147106 should work?
Tank you.
I will separate the pathways to use my external sensor.
Hello Helge,
For me several parts where unavailable from JLCPCB as well.
I made separate order with their mother company (??) LCSC