Don’t swap that part, it’s the best one to use. There is an entire forum thread on problems people have had with swapping that to an inferior part.
If they are out of stock, please wait!!
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Thank you Stuart.
Of the 60 cell units I’ve ordered/made, I have now 31 operational.
9 who seem to work, but don’t give information into the website.
All light blink as it should.
Except one, who have blinking red after a short time.
5 have somewhere a short, if I measured +and - there is contact.
12 that have connectors broken or bad contact
Due to circumstances I ended up with 1.25 JST, and impossible to get good ones.
First month’s of Covid an order from China took months (4) to get to Thailand (usually weeks).
Local stock unavailable.
They where too thin to be strong.
After this I used standard pins, 2.54, that went a little better.
Hot glue seems to be the best to strengthen the contacts.
30 had the attiny soldered by JLC 30 by myself.
3 x attiny I couldn’t program.
One of the reasons to really want the version 4.40, hopefully more robust for hand soldering!!
the attiny841 was in stock today for 5 minutes xD
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Nothing special.
Soldered attiny, connectors and added aluminium I had available as heatsink.
This is after cleaning with 99% alcohol.
The others look the same.
Soldering joints look surprisingly good 
The purple is soft heat conductive pad I used in the past on video cards and had left over.
Besides this, I used heatsink paste.
There aren’t any holes to mount.
A clamp on the sides would block the temperature sensor contact.
I for sure wish JLC PCB would solder JST connection.
The hooked types cost a fortune, if available at all.
JST in overall expensive.
Except when buying a set of wire, plug and socket. Then $ 0.05 (in a set of 50)
Socket alone easy $0.25 (set of 50)
Amazon charges between 15 and 45 for transport and tax to Thailand.
8oz ox-gard cost me $45,-
No local alternative. At all.
With Chinese sites offering very limited options, and western sites charge extreme transport costs…
I’m just out of luck.
Add the Covid delays of several months to obtain parts and living off grid with no functiona BMS, you need to work with what you have and get your hands on.
If paperclips would have fitted and be flexible enough, those would have done fine
They aren’t.
2.54 pins can be soldered and provide better contact.
2.54 female sucks for contact.
At least the ones I received from China.
No grip and bad contact.
With those as option… I have a lot of defective units.
The 2.0 holes are so small that solder sucker and braided copper don’t remove the tin, no new fitting.
Best I can do with the failed 1.25 and 2.54 females is to solder wires against the small tin bulb, and cover it with (non conductive) hot glue.
It works, gives the contact, most of the time.
Now… almost 9 months later, still not a working system.
I have 60 or so programmed attiny, I can de-solder them from the 4.21 boards who are way to small, and solder back at the new boards.
I might get 32 X 4.21 working, what is my minimal need for the cells.
Knowing my luck, I need to also install the new version and controller as for sure it will fail.
The new version i’ll order 50 PCB and hope to end with 32 working and a few spare.
Probably just order 40* attiny extra, and if they aren’t enough, use the ones from failed 4.21.
To bad other companies ask tonnes to make populated PCB,
And to bad JLCPCB doesn’t do all the parts.
That is very kind, but I am in the Netherlands, so not sure if that would work out with postage,
I will keep your kind offer in mind, certainly if there are more folks who want to join
Yes, I have used avrdude and the precompiled files - and it looks the same. avrdude DOES report the fuses as listed in the file, so I’m fairly confident. And I know it’s doing something because it flashes D4 at power-on, then flashes D2 every few seconds. I am concentrating on one module, though I did try two just to make sure the first wasn’t bad.
I have a fair amount of basic equipment, including an oscilloscope if needed… I haven’t done anything yet apart from soldering, flashing, and testing the cables, since the batteries these are intended for won’t be here for a few weeks yet… just testing with a single 18650 for now.
Okay Jeff, sounds like you have the basics covered. On the JST cables, you have pin 1 to pin 1 and 2 to 2?
If you use one of the JST cables and loop TX to RX on the controller (no modules connected) do you see “ignored errors” in the web page?
Thank you so much, I tried with utp and ftp wires, but the errors continued, now I use a shorter wire and everything is fine. Thank you for your attention
Thank you so much, I tried with utp and ftp wires, but the errors continued, now I use a shorter wire and everything is fine. Thank you for your attention and congratulations for you amazing job.
Yes, pin 1<->1 and 2<->2 on the JST. With no modules connected, I do see “ignored request errors” climbing for every packet sent by the controller. I also verified that both the JST cables exhibit this behavior - so that’s helpful.
Great, so that means the cables and the controller are working as expected.
Work in 1 of the modules at a time, there must be a dodgy soldering joint
Hello All, I am tracking this project for some time. It’s really great job, congrats, especially to creator & invetor and all the contributors.
I saw on the forum reported issues about communication problems. Are there any plans to switch to RS485 to fix it ? I saw in the newest controller board RS485 but the monitoring boards are still having only RS232.
Thanks
JB
Hi, there isn’t a problem with communications, if you take a look at the forum posts, these have generally been resolved by the end user using twisted cabling or similar - normally an issue with the installation and local interference.
@stuart ,
JLCPCB is great, but sometimes greatly confusing.
To my understanding LCSC and JLCPCB are the same company, use the same part numbers but don’t share stock??
Lcsc# C693260 (AO3401A)
C440263 (SMBJ5.0A) and
C84139 (AZ432ANTR-E1)
Are widely available on LCSC but out of stock on JLCPCB??
If they aren’t matched, any ideas on how to get JLCPCB to order from LCSC???
Or better order directly from them??
Unfortunately not, you can drop them an email, but no idea if it will help. You normally just have to wait for stock to arrive/transfer.
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It will increase the costs a little bit, on 40 cell PCB and 2 controllers (together +/- $170 with missing parts) and the parts (few extra) are $30 (excluding attiny841)
That include the $16 and $17,- transport.
What other parts are needed for the new controller boards?
Relays, I think?
Can the ones from standard 4 relay bank user with the older controller board be used?
Edit:
I just looked at the GitHub BOM
“Through Hole Component List”
Clear enough.
The attiny isn’t to be used?
For what I could tell from your video it’s the source for copies of the cell module??
I could be wrong.
Edit 2:
The 3 components above, are they doable for hand soldering???
During my first order I made mistake not to order the thermistors in the center of the resistors.
So needed to solder them later on.
That was bad.
Really bad. Even with microscope.
It takes me about an hour to get it in, without too much solder, and confirmed contact.
Needless to say that several of those now give Falce readings (they got too hot)
And need to be replaced…
Can it work with sensor that say 7 when it is 29c?
I have now 4 I need to re-do…
Sigh.
a silly question how to reactivate the screen when inside the DIN rail box. Look how beautiful she is.
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Quick question:
The 3.3 ohm 3/4 watt resistors are out of stock, but the 0.5W, same size (2010) is available.
Alternative is to solder by hand, as LCSC again have more then enough stock
Edit:
I choose to solder by hand.
2010 isn’t difficult to do, and I now have the right equipment to do so.
(Heat gun for SMD)