DIYBMS v4

very cold just recently -6 or so, its just dead, no leds when connected to power or the usbasp, no comms when attempting to reprogram it but that does blink the green led once if that means anything…

It may be worth running the soldering iron over the attiny pins, just in case, but it does sound terminal!

I got four batteries sitting in parallel for a while now with 3.477, 3.485, 3.477, 3.490 voltages and external voltmeter is showing 4.489. What is the best practice to adjust it? By modifying “Calibration multiplier”?

Also I saw some comments about ADC and ADS1115 in particular but not much in the code. Is there any progress or any good practices? For now I have Victron SmartShunt but would like to unify the measurements with diybms in the future.

@stuart Are the new controller boards close enough to finished that I should wait to order the new controller boards instead of the current v4 ones? I’m looking forward to the CAN bus controller version since I have Victron equipment but also have a 13kWh LiFePO4 bank that is waiting for a BMS :slight_smile:

I’d wait, hoping to release this week.

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3 posts were split to a new topic: ATtiny841 SSUR or SSU

Just checking, you connect the c1 cable to the relay and c2 to the battery? And do you connect the shunt trip to the NO connection of the relay?

Its warmer where you are than the UK, that’s for sure!

Yes Stuart, ambient temperature here in Nigeria is about 32°C midday

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Good to see diyBMS is travelling the world!

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hi Stuart
For some 310Ah Lifepo4 batteries that I just bought, I am thinking of putting 2 or 3 modules per cell to triple the discharge capacity, going from 850mAh to 2.4Ah. does it make sense, or is it a nonsense?

It should work, although they may fight over each other as the voltage changes

3 posts were split to a new topic: Connections for ext temperature sensor

2 posts were split to a new topic: Optoisolator U2

While my PCBs are not here yet, i have installed the firmware to the controller (Wemos D1 mini) and while the router see the DIY BMS controller (after given the user and password from the internet at 192.168.4.1), i can not log in yet with his ip adres shown in the router. Is it really necesary to have it plugged in in the controller to be able to log in??Schermafbeelding 2021-02-27 om 20.40.37

Hello from newbie,

First of all i would like to say thank you for such a great project which makes me excited. İ have completed payment jlcpcb 30 v4.2 modules and 5 controller. İ programmed controller and it works fine but due to pandemic i couldn’t get usbasp programmers for modules. İs there any change to program modules over d1 mini? Or any other advise? İ searched over internet but may be unlucky couldn’t find.

Thanks for all.

You could try programming an arduino, I’m not sure it can be done but you can investigate it, surely there is a lot of literature about it on the net I located this

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Hi all, I have since the beginning of 2020 the DIYBMS v4 in use, which was the first version that could be assembled via JLCPCB. In March I have loaded the controller with version 4.2, so I still have the white GUI. Now I wanted to update the controller. Do I have to update the boards as well?
By the way, the BMS runs like a charm, thanks again Stuart for the development :+1:

Yes, the latest code is a major change, so both module boards and controller need upgrading. The instructions are in GITHUB.

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I’ve just launched a new version of the modules boards - v4.40

Heres a video all about them…

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