Also consider the p1p2serial solution as that may give better install options from MMI rather than in the unit?
Do the emon units have spare serial ports that could be used for the Comms if someone wrote the code?
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Good idea! In principle that can also control the HP if you like…
An RPi has loads of ports you could use for serial P1/P2, but you’d have to write the code, I think. However there is GitHub - Arnold-n/P1P2Serial: Monitor and control Daikin/Rotex (hybrid/Altherma) heat pumps via the 2-wire P1/P2 thermostat interface with an ATmega328P, ESP8266, and electronics. The P1P2Serial library and P1P2Monitor program perform low-level bus operation, the P1P2-bridge-esp8266 program interprets data from/to MQTT supporting Home Assistant MQTT discovery. P1P2Serial may also be used for other Japanese Home Bus System based standards: DIII-NET (F1/F2) bus, Mitsubishi M-Net bus, Toshiba TCC-Link, Hitachi H-link, Panasonic/Sanyo SIII-Net, Haier, York, and others. which runs on ESP8266, understands Daikin-ese, and does mqtt etc. Might be worth investigating.
EDIT The P1P2 adapter is a custom built device, using an Atmega (Arduino) chip to handle the P1P2 part in conjunction with an ESP8266 for Wifi. There are earlier versions using straight Arduinos, but it’s already getting more complicated…
I had looked at P1P2 and decided that there was more of an uptake on ESPAltherma on this forum so would get more support with that. I like ESPA’s DHW signal.
It would be great if either ESPAltherma could send direct to emoncms
AND/OR
P1P2 / ESPAltherma could run natively on emoncms’s pi (along with any other manufacturers that have a following where serial comms has been figured out.
However, both of these could take someone with more skills and time than me.
I think for now my next step is to buy a WT32-ETH01 board and see if I can make it send to emoncms .org via a pi.
I’ll buy a Shelly Pro and see if I can make that do the same.
So for a client bundle I’d have a wired switch/router for my 3 devices and a single cat5/6 to their internet box.
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“good Wi-Fi connectivity is a must for the M5 as its range is atrocious!” Hello, I’m a new member of the community. I have a Daikin EDLA09D3V3. I’ve recently installed HomeAssistant and I’ve had a M5StickC+1.1 for a while, but I’ve been struggling with network connectivity. I’m trying to setup monitoring in HA via ESPAltherma. I’ve got everything configured and have data flowing through to HA (see attached image).
However, as soon as I put the lid back on the EDLA09D3V3 it turns into a Faraday cage, immediately cutting off WiFi network connectivity. I see the M5StickC+1.1 only supports 2.4G (which is fine as I don’t need massive throughput but Ideally I’d like the signal to traverse a brick wall). Normally I run a mixed 5GHz/2.4Ghz meshed LAN. However, I’ve tried extending off my router with a spare WiFi router purely on 2.4Ghz. Even when I have a decent signal (-53dBm), putting the lid on kills it immediately.
Here is a photo of the spare router, and the EDLA09D3V3 with the lid open.
Zoom in and you can just about see the bright orange of the M5StickC+1.1
I’ve tried getting longer dupont cables so I can run them from the rear of the EDLA09D3V3 down a conduit into the house nearer a satellite, but this no longer looks practical. What creative solutions have you come up with to get around this to monitor your heat pumps?
Thanks for your help.
Tim
My thought was to run a 4 core cable in to the house from the unit itself. Last EDLA I installed had a load of cables for the indoor controls, diverter valve, etc so I’d try that routing, and get to somewhere with better signal.
Join the DuPont cables to that and put the M5 on the other end.
Others on this forum have just extended the M5 to the nearest house wall and put it in a plastic box
Hi @goldendel check out this thread Daikin Altherma, ESPAltherma & Home Assistant with OpenEnergyMonitor - #121 by squarepeg77 there are examples of external enclosures
Thanks very much @Phil_E & @tiger_cook. From looking at the threads there seems to be 2 options for getting around the Faraday cage:
- Mounting the M5StickC+1.1 in a waterproof box outside the cage.
- Routing a cable down the conduit from the EDLA09D3V3 into the garage.
Option 1 is a neater solution for me, I’ve checked and there is space in the conduit. However as a retrofit, rather than doing this when the EDLA09D3V3 was installed, I run the risk of disconnecting the cables as I attempt to route the cable through.
Option 2: I can’t see any pictures of how people have found an egress point from the PCB to the outside that would be waterproof/not chafe the cable. Neil, how did you do it? Did you need to drill a hole?
With both the solutions you have to transition from the dupont cable (female end connecting to the X10A) to the 4core/CAT5. Am I correct in thinking you have removed the male end from the dupont cable and terminated the copper in a standard terminal block with the 4core/CAT5 connecting the other side? If that is the case, have you also crimped male dupont connections on the other end of the 4core/CAT5 to connect to the M5StickC+1.1 or have you done something else?
Thanks very much Neil. That is really helpful. I’ve had another look at the rear of the Altherma and can now see I have another exit option rather than just into the conduit. I think this will work better.
From looking at the inside previously, access from the rear to the X10A was poor. How did you get the cable from the egress point back to the PCB?
when you get the cover off, there is loads of room to route the cables to the exit grommet, here is one pic (9kW unit) from the other thread, make sure you isolate the power or get someone that’s competent!
I’m holding off any work until the weather improves and it certainly won’t be live when the cover is off and I’m routing/connecting cables. Once I’m done, I’ll post some photos. Thanks for your advice.
Hi Tim, welcome to the OEM Community!
Like @tiger_cook, I used a waterproof plastic box, but screwed to the wall behind the HP. I ran the cable from the X10A socket down past the PCBs, down through an obvious cover/frame gap and looped it up underneath and over to the wall. I used some cable ties to stabilise/route it. So it basically leaves the box under the front cover, and that’s it. No grommets involved! It can’t be seen, and the natural curve ensures any water drops off underneath.
I made my own cable up from Cat6, crimping Dupont sockets/pins on to the ends as appropriate - I borrowed the tool. The X10A end I used a 5-socket block so it was a good fit. I’ve since found/obtained some proper JST EH 5-way plugs, but haven’t used them yet.
I have a friend who’s a software engineer, we’ll see what we can do!
I looked at it, but it’s time… Had I not been able to use MQTT, I’d have been forced to, but since it now works, there’s other more urgent things to do!
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JST EH plugs and crimp terminals just arrived from Farnell, they’re TINY! 
I am looking into setting this up for my Daikin heat pump with Home Assistant. I see on GitHub in the discussion that they could get the firmware onto a M5StickCPlus2, but in this post I see there is a fix. Can you use a M5StickCPlus2. I am not very electronically technical. I am confused by which cable I will need. I have also seen some discussion about using a M5Stack ATOM Lite. Has anyone used one of those. What are the pros and cons over the M5StickCPlus2.
I’ve just used the M5StickCPlus2 and it works fine with the new version from GitHub.
Really not sure about the Atom but most stick with the M5Stick so if you have problems you will probably get more help
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That is good to know. As soon as it comes in stock at The Pi Hut, I will order it.
Great to know, thanks. I ordered the mk1’s but a box of mk2’s just showed up from RS!
Was it the ‘smart40-githib‘ variant on GitHub that you used?
@bazcurtis RS have stock so no need to wait!
@Phil_E The standard code now has the amendments needed for the Cplus2 so just download that. At some point when you configure the code prior to upload you just select the Cplus2 one.
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