Thanks. Overshoot is set at 1 degree at the moment I will change this and see what happens
What do you want to happen?
If it runs continuously it will add heat continuously and your home will get warmer.
You want the heat pump to run but you donāt want the heat it produces?
Why not just turn it off for a while?
Either manually or using room temperature control?
Today I did turn it off manually.
Heat pump is set to turn off when outside temp is 18 degrees or above .
I was hoping that the WC would just trickle heat in to keep the room temp at 19 to 20 degrees
I can look at moving from Full WC to modoka control and have the WC set higher at wormer outside temp , but would really like just to run on full WC
This heat pump cannot do that.
Not many, if any can really.
What other heat pumps can do is chuck in a bit of heat, wait a while and then chuck in some more.
A Daikin will not do this.
It is either on running continuously, on running in short cycles, or off, thereās nothing else once you reach the point where you need less heat than the minimum output.
The Madoka is useless as the hysteresis is too high for most of us.
There are third party room controls that are an option.
A Daikin isnāt great at low flow temperatures and they arenāt great running in short bursts.
This is what a Daikin is like, you have to decide which shortcomings you want to live with.
I am sure other heat pumps are the same, just different issues to live with.
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Thanks for feedback ,
I suspect I will end up looking for a 3ed party Room control come the end.
Is there any that you would recommend and do you now is it just the case of removing the existing controller and using the existing wire to connect the 3ed party controller
Thanks
Mark
My understanding is that it is more complicated than just slapping something in place of the Madoka.
The wiring has to go to the heat pump, not through the MMI.
I asked Octopus about this and that is what the `engineerā told me.
I asked them if they could fit a Tado for me and told them I was happy to pay.
I have had no response.
I cannot live with the Madoka.
Thatās typical, anything to make life complicated and more expensive
No, the MMI and Madoka are as one.
Its not a bad idea.
It makes sense that a Tado will not have anything to do with the MMI, it must go directly to the heat pump.
I had a Tado installed by Octopus as part of the heatflex trial last year but itās connected to ext thermostat connection so Iām not sure if it actually overrides the Daikin system much if at all.
Have you considered the Homely offering?
Their controls definitely communicate via modbus with the heat pump.
Best of luck finding someone to fit a Homely. I tried for a while but no electrician around here would touch it. Contacting Homely is almost impossible I rang them and left messages without reply. When I did speak to them they say they have a list of installers but will not give details. Midsummer Wholesalers who sell the product also state they have a list of installers but never sent me details. The biggest shock was that you need a separate module for the Daikin HP and the one I found costs about Ā£500. You would need to save a lot on your electric bill to cover this.
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My opinion, Homely isnāt going to save you any money on running your heat pump, it canāt.
All it could ever do is make it easier to live with due to the issues with the Madoka that some of us have.
The ideal solution would be for Daikin to sort their firmware out but there does not seem to really be any incentive for them to do so.
A Tado kit is Ā£250 plus fitting. The level 3 emonHP is Ā£554 + fitting so not exactly cheap either. Will you make your money back from installing one 
?
Lets say the homely irons out the Daikin issues and it saves you Ā£20 a year on bills and a compressor replacement due to excessive cycling how many years to get your money back over the 25 year lifespan of your heat pump?
Personally Iām not sure I would spend the extra money but, if it sorted the quirky behaviour of the Daikin it might be worth the peace of mind to just let it get on with it and let me forget about what the heat pump is doing.
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Homely primary selling point is removing the need for heatpump owners to understand weather compensation and removing the need for installers to adjust weather compensation curves.
Today I realised the Daikin integration on home assistant allows you to trigger the heating on and off.
Yesterday I increased temperature overshoot to 4 which stop the cycling with a outside temp of 11 degrees but this did make the house to hot and had to manually tern the heating off
Today I have created a very simple on and off trigger in home assistant which takes the temperature from the Modoka unit and will turn the heat pump on or off , the only limitation I can see is Daikin limits you to 10 minutes intervals between checking the temperature which is not a big issue
This is essentially what I do, albeit with a separate Bluetooth temperature sensor. Itās made it possible to keep the room temperature where I want it with a much tighter tolerance than the madoka would allow. Pure LWT isnāt an option for me because aside from on the coldest of days, the minimum output of the 4kW EDLA04E2V3 is more than I need, so the house would become uncomfortably warm.
It does mean that the heat pump is doomed to cycle more than Iād like, but thereās not really another option. At worst, itās fewer than 1 cycle per hour, and often closer to 0.5/hour, which doesnāt seem too bad.
I was fortunate enough to get a wired BRP069A61 LAN adapter, which has a big advantage over the supplied BRP069A78 WiFi adapter. Unlike the BRP069A78, the BRP069A61 runs its own local web server, and thereās a home assistant integration which can interrogate this instead of relying on the Onecta integration. So you can get temperature readings more rapidly than via Onecta, and things still work if your internet goes down, which seems a big plus for controlling your heating!
Yes response time for temp looks like itās upto about 40 minutes not 10 as integration states so not great but from todayās experience I am holding temp within 0.5 degree swing.
I can and will look at linking action to a different temperature sensor which will improve response time.
I agree running locally is much better but it looks like remote setup works
Interesting conversation this week on the renewable heating hub suggesting cycling is not necessarily the issue we have been led to believe.
