I’ve got a ct-clamp that has been monitoring the power useage of my immersion heater. It is been playing up for a little while now. Are there any known problems with this setup. Power is directed to power plus via a Solic 200 solar diverter.
By way of a note I did add 8.8 kWh set of batteries to my home power.
John
I can hardly approve of what you’ve done there as a permanent installation, because the blue neutral wire has no mechanical protection. I’d overlook it if it was a temporary test rig, but not to remain like that for ever. The blue pvc is insulation, it has very little mechanical strength compare to the white sheath which is the principal mechanical protection for the conductors.
Can you clarify? Not reading what it should when it should, or what?
The plug is overheating badly so much that I have resorted to using the gas again to heat water until I can find the source of the problem.
The 3.5 mm jack plug on the end of the c.t? I don’t believe you.
I think you mean the plug on the power cord supplying the immersion heater? In that case, and if it’s on your ring main, replace both plug and socket with a reputable UK-made brand (the name I’d recommend begins with a ‘C’ and relates to something that grows in woods 
), or better, replace the socket with a fused spur box and permanently wire the immersion heater in.
Once the spring contacts get warmed up a bit too far because of increased contact resistance, the metal softens and all contact pressure is lost, so it heats up even more. Replacement is the only option.
Okay, do you think that a “WIFI controlled fused timer spur switch” wired direct to the immersion heater without using the CT clamp. Power to the spur switch will be coming via the Solic 200 power diverter. The spur switch will provide the power usage for me.
The 3000w WIFI controlled fused timer spur switch is “Suitable for the majority of electric heaters up to 3KW including immersion heaters, …”
My concern with splitting out the neutral to put the c.t. on it was purely for your and your family’s safety. If the c.t and the unprotected wire were enclosed in a plastic box that meant there was little to no possibility of damaging the neutral, then all would be fine.
If you want to control the immersion heater remotely to in part override the diverter, then if it lives up to the advertising, the device you mention should be OK. Knowing a little more now about your installation, my thinking is the obvious option remains a fused spur box, with another plastic terminal box close by to contain the c.t and the split cable.
Check the sizes, but I think this https://www.screwfix.com/p/vimark-6-entry-square-junction-box-with-knockouts-88mm-x-45mm-x-88mm/498vt might be suitable.