What do you use for a Thermostat

Hi John,

Now, today, I am probably the last person on the planet to advise anyone to use an “installer”.
My “installer” having been STRUCK OFF TWICE in the last six months.

I do not know of the London situation for Heat Pump Installations, but would advise that you do not trust the guarantees provided by the MCS,NIC and the RECC.

Thermostats

Just buy a simple Honeywell Home device costing circa £80.

Get your Heat Pump up and running with the simple Thermostats.

Do NOT initially buy a “Smart” Thermostat.

Above all , be careful , the renewable industry company half life is less than three years!

ian

I’d go to a clean sheet of paper; “what do I Really need?” because the answer which I got was Not to remove anything. The £5k government incentive to spend £10k more than you might need to, is a distraction. I only Added to house heating capabilities, and added to diversity of supply, with the air source heat pump (ten years ago) providing heat to the living room only. I never removed the gas central heating because that would be wasted effort. I just use it less, and in summer time not at all.

Ah, no - I have a “simple” Honeywell thermostat, but it tries to modulate the heating system like a boiler, which makes the heat pump cycle way more than it needs to. Far better to have a thermometer in the room that tells the heatpump how warm it is, so it can decide the optimum flow temps.

3 Likes

Completely agree Tim. I have a NIBE heat pump and it came with two of its own (wired) temperature sensors:

  • One of those is outside, on the north side of the house, shaded from the rising sun, to provide a “how cold is it outside?” reading
  • One of those is inside, on the 1st floor landing (of a 3-storey house), to provide a “how warm is it inside?” reading

From those, the heat pump applies its own Weather Compensation logic to decide what flow temperature it should target. Job done.

1 Like

My electric boiler uses Heatmiser PRT-W stats that allow setting the switching differential 1-3C.

Hi Tim,

My point was that on a new system , Initially run and test the system with a simple Honeywell Style Thermostat.

When your system is operating then go for a better Thermostat.

My other point was so called “smart Thermostats may not be the best choice on a heat pump”.

I still have not chosen my preferred Thermostat given the performance, or lack of it, of the “installation”.

A much more sophisticated Thermostat would be the Zennio .
Manual_Home_Thermostat_EN-Ed.b.pdf (646.3 KB)

Unfortunately, These professional Thermostats use the KNX Bus , with a KNX to Samsung/Mitsubishi et al completely unaffordable and would bypass the Samsung controller!

So, Does anyone know of a Affordable Thermostat that has the functionality of the Zennio?

Flow Water Temperature control ?

With Weather compensation is not my Flow water controlled by the Outside Air Temperature Sensor?

The photograph shows the Water Law offset as 1.2 C and a Flow water Temperature of 42.4 C.

The Water Law graphical Temperatures , 201* were High = 45 @ -5 , and Low = 35 @15 C.

The Water Law has calculated the Water law offset as 42.4 -1.2 = 41.2 C.

ian

Never found that option (it is not used now).

Part of the issue for me is the resolution. For me 0.1°C makes a big difference. I know it sounds daft, but I can tell if the room is showing as at 20.2°C or 20.3°C. Thermostats with a 0.5°C resolution just don’t work for me in my main room heated by UFH. A resolution of 0.5° and a delta of 1° is effectively a 2° window.

You have to turn off the stat and hold the clock button as you turn it back on to get to the detailed settings menu.

1 Like

Hi Christian,

My former “installer” has not responded to either myself or the NIC.

The NIC has reverted to it’s advice that I seek legal advice.

Apparently, “nothing can be done”!.

With the half life of companies in the Renewable industry being less than three years I fully expect my former “installer” to change his company name , appoint new directors, usually the wife , and emerge as new startup in the “exciting Renewable industry”!.

I am, with justification , become a crabbit Auld man!.

ian

Hi Tim,

“You wait for a bus , and three come along”?

Why does the Samsung have so many buses?

Bus to the outdoor controller!
The Samsung controller “talks” to the Outdoor device using the F1 and F2 Bus.F1/F2 is Probably another version of RS485.

Buses from outdoor controller to MODBUS destinations
The Outdoor controller uses a RS485 to Modbus ( RS485 ) convertor, the Mim-B15N.

Buses to OEM devices
OEM devices , must use a ModBUS to F1/ F2 Convertor, the MIM-A60UN.

Why this complexity??

Why are these Convertors always unobtainable?

ian

Given that I already use Home Assistant, I took a different approach. It’s a 70’s semi with wet CH. All rads have Z-Wave thermostatic valves, and each of the rooms we control has an emonTH - that’s livingroom, two bedrooms and the study.

Home Assistant has “virtual” thermostats for each room using the emonTH as the sensor and a “We need heat” boolean as the controlled switch (not the rad). If any room has asserted its “We need heat” boolean, then the boiler fires.

The rads themselves are controlled separately based on the room thermostat’s set point. This allows for an offset to be programmed. For two of the rooms, the rad needs to be 0.5C higher than the desired temp. For the third, it’s 1.5C.

Above all this is a control algorithm that varies the set points for each room based on a number of factors such as occupancy, open window sensor, time of day, season, whether we are home or not.

This system has been running for three years now and, apart from occasional tweaking, works well.

1 Like

Yes, exactly what I do (but use BLE temperature gauges).

I use Shedy (AppDaemon add on) to set different temperatures at different times of day/days of week and other factors such as presence. Really outstanding scheduler.

I use Schedy as well. As you say, it’s really versatile.

I may have to stop using though because I’d prefer to be able to set times and target temps with the time being when I want the target to be reached, not when I want the system to start heating. This is outside of the scope of Schedy, so I may need to roll my own.

Yes as that is pretty complex. I have a simple method of doing that. I raise the target temp by a small amount starting early. So if I know it takes 3 hours to raise the room by 1.5°, 3 hours before target time, I raise the target by 0.5° and then every hour. So if only below setpoint by 0.5°, it only comes on for that last hour. Works pretty well I find. I don’t setback a huge amount (it uses as much energy to reheat as to maintain heat I find) so it is never that far off where I want it to be.

1 Like

That’s a neat approach.

1 Like