Final reply to my own messages 
One setting that I can’t edit on my system, which I think would help reduce cycling is overshoot. In the installer manual I see that I should be able to set this between 1-4C. Mine is set to 1C and I cannot modify this at all. This is using the installer user profile and when set to either LWT or room thermostat control.
Are you able to freely change this setting, like all the other settings within the MMI?
The bar chart is reading the kWh feeds that are accumulated directly from the inputs, whereas the power chart is added up from the watt feeds. The power feeds are quite noisy, and are sampled at a higher interval (60s) for the purposes of charting. This will mean some values will be skipped, hence the discrepencies.
Cheers for the quick reply Tim, would I be correct in saying that the bar-chart values would be more accurate then?
Yes, the bar chart will be more accurate.
@mortstar I am only seeing 1 in the overshoot too so think this may be a limitation of the smaller units.
While I am always pushing to be the top of the table I am also happy to be beaten as it will encourage me to do more (swap some radiators, new double glazing, WWHR etc).
Everyone fighting tooth and nail to the top to be the biggest eco warrior is no bad thing in my book.
Do you need the bottom end set to -10 as that seems a bit excessive (depending on your usual design outside temperature).
Once you get ESPAltherma you can also split out the heating and hot water easier so you can than start to hone in on optimising DHW too (it becomes addictive).
If you are thinking of radiator changes pop your house into heatpunk and see what it would take to get down to 40 or 35°c as you may already be part way there and it will push you to the next level.
Yeah the ability to split out the DHW from space heating was my main driver for getting the ESPAltherma, had it a few days now and as well as splitting the usage, it’s also great to have immediate and accurate to 0.1C readings of the target LWT. That is really useful to understand what the unit is actually up to, you can see my dashboard here: Emoncms - app view
I only have the bottom end so low for the easier mental arithmatic of what the LWT should be at a given termperature 
. Essentially this is targeting 39C @ 0C…and my family won’t be unhappy with the extra warmth on the very few occasions the temperature actually ever gets significantly below 0C here in the south of England.
OK good to know that’s not just an issue with my unit.
A bit annoying, I’d like to experiment with a higher overshoot to see if that could reduce cycling at the low end.
Your other option would be to try increasing the modulation as that should lower the flow temperature off of the weather dependent curve as you reach the desired room temperature.
Fair warning mine is back in 5 as I found it a bit hit and miss from my experimenting but I am still waiting 4 replacement radiators so will be playing again in a few weeks.
Hi all, recently had a EDLA08 installed with the Madoka but no additional monitoring as yet.
Have been playing with different settings but with the wild changes in temperatures recently I’m struggling to figure out whether LWT or tweaks I make are any improvement.
Would you mind sharing the latest weather curve settings you’re using to give me a fresh starting point?
I will upload an export from my MMI after I have finished another Air purge. That should show you all of the settings I currently have configured.
Just remember that your WDC should be based on heat loss calculations and the minimum Radiator output and then fine tuned to suit your requirements / how hot you like the property.
While you can just copy settings from another unit this will likely not be suitable for your house and could leave you with a worse COP.
Be sure to take a copy of the MMI Export (from the installer menus) before making changes so that you are able to revert if needed.
Interesting item I have found this afternoon, Dropping the DT from 5 to 3 has given me a more consistent run with higher flow rate and less of the bouncing up and down in modulation when running.
My run at 14:20 stabilized around 15:30 and then until I started an air purge at 16:40 it was consistently better with modulation in flow rate (actually running above minimums 6-7l/m) and stable DT.
The house still seems warm and the COP is higher and more stable. May be worth looking into for the smaller Daikin Units.
Ahhh interesting finding, I did experiment with both larger and smaller dTs previously (+/- 1C from 5C which is my default), but to be honest I was changing other settings at the same time, so my tinkering was not that scientific, as it seemed that a change in dT didn’t make a difference to the “saw-tooth” power usage that I saw of my system.
I spotted yesterday that the 6kW Altherma in Whitchurch (same size as my HP) was running with dT of ~3C and was also able to run flow temps ~28C consistently with draw of ~300W, getting long-runs with COP around 5. My system cycles as soon as I set below 31C and a draw of ~420W seems to be my minimum level at the moment, will experiment with a lower dT and see if my heat pump settles like yours.
The upcoming forecast is really good for experiments with this system with highs around 10C and lows down to -2C for the next couple of days in my area.
Sorry for the delay here,
My current settings are attached here.
This includes the DT 0f 3 but I have yet to see how this behaves fully on the coldest days.
Farnborough,Hampshire_March06-EDLA08E2v3_DaikinMMI-export.txt (6.8 KB)
Again this is what is currently working well in my house, please do not take this and just copy paste as it may not be suitable for everyone.
Before making changes please backup your settings and make notes so you can revert them if this breaks anything.
How did you get on with updating the DT, di this help in your situation at all?
Is the settings export standard on the MMI? I don’t think I’ve ever seen that in my installer menu - do you need to plug in a USB?
It is at the bottom of the installer menu. You need to plug in a usb stick that is fat 32 formatted and you can save the configuration but cannot re import a configuration file.
I think it works thanks @KnightPhoenix, just one change setting the DT to 3 - after one heat cycle with similar outside temps the COP appears smoother and higher -
Yes I did make the change to a dT of 4 (from 5) and I would say that it has slightly improved COP and slightly reduced energy consumption which is definitely a win:win!
As you mentioned, I see my 6kW unit modulate flow rate much more readily with this lower dT, before it would just stick at the lowest possible flow ~6.75 l/min.
I’d like to further reduce to a dT of 3, to see what impact that has. But before making that change, it’d be really useful if the ability to compare a system on heatpumpmonitor.org was working again (to empirically compare the data of the system to itself, rather than going from gut-feel and assumption).
Thanks for sharing Zak. Ours is a retrofit and I’m having to judge things from the Daikin controller and our solar setups electricity usage monitoring which seems less than ideal.
I had noticed that my flow rate sticks at 7-8, thought it might be that the filter was full, it needed a bit of a clean but wasn’t too bad. Dropping dT to 3 has doubled flow rate, efficiency looks better though energy usage up.
Any recommendations for running pump as continuous or sample? If sample is the 60% setting the consensus?
Don’t worry, I am on heat pump 2 and in the middle of doing a lot of renovations to the house.
I have not set any pump restrictions and you will be able to check this from the export above, all of the codes in the export are listed in the installer reference guide available from Daikin (or Google “Daikin edla04-08ev3 installer reference guide”).
My only concern with the lower DT is how the system will perform on cooler days. Hy hope is that as it is in fancoil the system will just let the DT spread as needed and keep the house warm but unless I get another cold day this year it may be a while before I can confirm.
Still seems to be running a bit high as the room temperature is still creeping up (all be in by 0.1°c an hour or so) so may have to dial in the WDC some more.
