Only thing I have is what they fitted.
These are the photos of the whole installation.
Why when the heating is set to 20 degrees during the day would it say it is heating up to 26 degrees?
Looks like you have the Kamstrup heat meter (same as me), feel free to have a look through the forums but @TrystanLea has mentioned previously that these can have issues with dissolved air in the system.
It may be beneficial to try another air purge from the installer menu or using the ESBE valve try and switch from space to DHW and see if any air comes out on a manual purge (doing this quickky. An bounce the coil inside the cylinder and dislodge any trapped air.
Alternatively you can get units that will remove dissolved air but ideally the less stuff you have in a system the better.
Octopus will have to do this for me, I have not got a clue where to begin with that.
Why would they fit parts they know are faulty? It has gone to a audit now I was told by the guy who visited for the post install courtesy visit
Another bit if information. when you flush toilet, there is hissing sound from the hot water tank, like it’s filling up again just from the flush.
This is not a faulty part per-se but possibly that these meters are more susceptible to dissolved air in the system.
This happened to me after octopus changed half of the radiators and forgot to put inhibitor back into the system (grabbed a bottle of x100 from toolstation and filled it via the magnetic filter).
Trystan covers this in more detail here - Kamstrup Multical 403 Erratic flow readings - #28 by TrystanLea
May be worth a read as it will help you explain what may be going on.
What I did do is turn this down on my phone and it went from taking 500w of electric to 10w
Thought the schedule is at 20 degree phone was showing heating to 26 degrees
If your hot water is refilling when you flush the toilet it may be worth checking if you are getting hot water in the toilet cistern, if you have no access to the cistern wait for it to fill, flush again (immediately after) and see if the clean water is warm / hot.
This would not be something that should happen but I have heard of other plumbers mistakenly linking the loo to the tank and flushing with steam before.
No its cold water in the cistern when I flush. Now the heat output is zero having turned off the heating going up to 26 degrees previously it is not making that hissing noise either on the tank. So may be worth popping the heat up and see what happens
ColinS, can you share the post on setting the hw schedule to improve efficiency.
Sorry, been out all day. Here is the hw recommendations I made on another thread. As for setting the field codes it is not that difficult from installer mode but I’m not surprised that engineers are not aware of them, the complexity baffles many. let me know if you want to walk through field code setting.
It was suggested today that there could be cold water in the pipes, then this comes out first. However, also noticed this evening, the cold water was taking a bit longer to turn hot. When hot water does come out, it is really hot too.
Heat pump went offline.
Had to put it in WPS mode and hit the WPS button on the router back now.
It is drawing heat for something. but not exactly sure what for. Suggests I am at 45 degrees for HW already and 20 degrees for the radiators
Justin - looking at your system - it seems to come on frequently to heat the HW but only for very short periods and then uses the immersion for most of the heating. I’m guessing you have it on ‘reheat’ and must have a very small reheat hysteresis setting to do this. As well as the field code changes mentioned earlier I would increase reheat hysteresis to at least 10 degrees. I would also use the ECO setting most of the time and set that at 45c.
If you really do want to run at a COMFORT level much higher than this then the Hysteresis setting can be higher too. IE if Comfort is set at 50c then you can have hysteresis at 20c. This way you avoid switching the HW heat up on for a trivial amount of input (and a lot of wasted energy)
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By the way - you mentioned your installer did not know about field codes. Perhaps they were trained on the ‘Breadcrumb’ codes instead which are a slightly higher level of coding but change the same paramater’ For example I suggested checking field codes 4-03 and 8-03 above.
These are in the second column from the left with the equivalent Breadcrump in the first column. So go into installer mode and check the setting of breadcrumb 9.4.3 and 9.4.4.
Likewise in my last post look at Breadcrumbs — shown by the # - 5.9 and 5.A (which adjust the field codes 6-00 and 6-08). If you need further help then let me know what these settings are.
Trouble is I don’t feel comfortable messing with installer settings, so would need to leave that to Octopus to fix unless it can be done remotely?
Thermosyphon within the pipework / small volume of water heading into radiators but the warmth not making it back to the return temperature probe. Continues for quote some time by the looks of it.
Show Octopus the thermosyphon and they should correct the pipework to prevent it.
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It’s gone into strong man mode
and pulling in a COP
It dropped down to 36 degrees with no heat up at 43 degrees (fallback) with 45 target.
I couldn’t and would not do it remotely so either tell Octopus to change the settings to those suggested or go in as installer (5678) and write down all current settings before changing just these ones. If it doesn’t work then it is easy to set them back to the old settings. It won’t explode!