If your hot water is refilling when you flush the toilet it may be worth checking if you are getting hot water in the toilet cistern, if you have no access to the cistern wait for it to fill, flush again (immediately after) and see if the clean water is warm / hot.
This would not be something that should happen but I have heard of other plumbers mistakenly linking the loo to the tank and flushing with steam before.
No its cold water in the cistern when I flush. Now the heat output is zero having turned off the heating going up to 26 degrees previously it is not making that hissing noise either on the tank. So may be worth popping the heat up and see what happens
ColinS, can you share the post on setting the hw schedule to improve efficiency.
Sorry, been out all day. Here is the hw recommendations I made on another thread. As for setting the field codes it is not that difficult from installer mode but Iâm not surprised that engineers are not aware of them, the complexity baffles many. let me know if you want to walk through field code setting.
It was suggested today that there could be cold water in the pipes, then this comes out first. However, also noticed this evening, the cold water was taking a bit longer to turn hot. When hot water does come out, it is really hot too.
Heat pump went offline.
Had to put it in WPS mode and hit the WPS button on the router back now.
It is drawing heat for something. but not exactly sure what for. Suggests I am at 45 degrees for HW already and 20 degrees for the radiators
Justin - looking at your system - it seems to come on frequently to heat the HW but only for very short periods and then uses the immersion for most of the heating. Iâm guessing you have it on âreheatâ and must have a very small reheat hysteresis setting to do this. As well as the field code changes mentioned earlier I would increase reheat hysteresis to at least 10 degrees. I would also use the ECO setting most of the time and set that at 45c.
If you really do want to run at a COMFORT level much higher than this then the Hysteresis setting can be higher too. IE if Comfort is set at 50c then you can have hysteresis at 20c. This way you avoid switching the HW heat up on for a trivial amount of input (and a lot of wasted energy)
By the way - you mentioned your installer did not know about field codes. Perhaps they were trained on the âBreadcrumbâ codes instead which are a slightly higher level of coding but change the same paramaterâ For example I suggested checking field codes 4-03 and 8-03 above.
These are in the second column from the left with the equivalent Breadcrump in the first column. So go into installer mode and check the setting of breadcrumb 9.4.3 and 9.4.4.
Likewise in my last post look at Breadcrumbs â shown by the # - 5.9 and 5.A (which adjust the field codes 6-00 and 6-08). If you need further help then let me know what these settings are.
Trouble is I donât feel comfortable messing with installer settings, so would need to leave that to Octopus to fix unless it can be done remotely?
Thermosyphon within the pipework / small volume of water heading into radiators but the warmth not making it back to the return temperature probe. Continues for quote some time by the looks of it.
Show Octopus the thermosyphon and they should correct the pipework to prevent it.
Itâs gone into strong man mode
and pulling in a COP
It dropped down to 36 degrees with no heat up at 43 degrees (fallback) with 45 target.
I couldnât and would not do it remotely so either tell Octopus to change the settings to those suggested or go in as installer (5678) and write down all current settings before changing just these ones. If it doesnât work then it is easy to set them back to the old settings. It wonât explode!
itâs gone 34 degrees in climate control on the app and 43 degrees heating on water
itâs started to draw power
Using 2.8kW draw of power but not producing any heat.
Something very very wrong!!!
Now gone the other way. These are really for Octopus to look into tomorrow just logging them here.
Hello @JustinUK
This is a known issue. Ultrasonic heat meters are very sensitive to air in the system and will not report a heat value if air is interfering with the reading. Your heat pump will be producing heat, this is just a heat meter issue!
It would be worth making sure that your system pressure is above 1.5 bar and to go around the radiators bleeding any air that may be present. Do you also have a bleed valve on the hot water cylinder coil?
Sorry I see that others have covered this already! Itâs not faulty equipment, just sensitive measuring devices that need very specific conditions to measure heat accurately. On the plus side itâs a good thing to get the air out of the system as air causes corrosionâŚ
Hi Colin,
I put economy mode at 45 degrees and have this set 24/7 with reheat hysteresis set at 10
I have put temperature up to 63 degrees on comfort mode and put this on for 2 hour period on Saturday morning.
Still seem to cycle a lot of water, 3 times in a day where hardly any water was used.
Can you tell me how to navigate the installer menu to get to these options please. I assume its Installer Settings and 4th and 8 option down
so
option 4 Booster Heater / 3 BSH eco timer Set at 50 min
option 8 Benefit kWh power supply - this only has 3 sub options
Allow heater, Allow Pump and Benefit kWh power supply
Are there others to set?
