Are the ‘premium’ brands worth the extra cost, especially if systems are only used for a few weeks a year, meaning efficiency and reliability are not as critical?
Well, that depends. Most brands have different product ranges. For example, Panasonic has low-end, mid-range, and high-end models, but their high-end range has issues with temperature sensor location and modulation. So a high-end Panasonic unit is not necessarily great.
Conversely, Mitsubishi’s high-end MSZ-LN range has excellent temperature modulation, and the 3.5 kW unit can modulate very well. The 2.5 kW unit is less good in this respect, it has a different compressor and can’t modulate as low.
Many units have issues hitting the heating setpoint because the temperature sensor is often located in the internal head. Sometimes it is in the intake airstream, such as with Panasonic, which can cause issues.
I would always advise getting a unit that either allows for an optional wall-mounted controller with an inbuilt temperature sensor, or can operate with an external temperature sensor. Not all wall-mounted controllers have sensors in them.
All Midea units have a “follow me” function, which uses the temperature sensor embedded in the remote control. Most other brands do not have that. So Midea is a cheaper brand with a useful bit of technology.
For example, are the controllers in the premium systems ‘better’?
For the most part, yes: they operate better, but this is not true of all premium units. The unit most people seem most satisfied with is the Daikin Stylish, which is also one of the more expensive units.
I have no idea about LG or Fujitsu units. They are popular for cooling and cheap, but does that make them good for heating? I don’t know.
Is it preferable to have one external unit driving multiple internal units, or to have internal and external units paired 1:1, typically leading to multiple external units being required?
It depends what you are trying to achieve, and on the modulation of the multi-split or single-split system. Cost-wise, it will probably be similar.
How does the efficiency in heating mode compare with the efficiency in cooling mode?
From the unit I monitor, heating efficiency looks pretty good, at around a SCOP of 4.
The SCOP figures on the datasheets are not particularly accurate from what I’m told. The manufacturers can game the test by running at high fan speeds, so if you get a budget unit with a small heat exchanger the SCOP will be worse than what is listed.
It is a bit different from A2W in the respect that with A2W you can upgrade the emitters to get great results, with A2A you can boost the fan speed on your unit which might be noisy.
I’m part of a team putting a unit into the Salford Energy House soon, so that should provide more answers on this.
Is performance maintained over the life of the installation?
Yes, as long as you keep the heat exchangers clean.
For example, is on-site-terminated refrigerant pipework more prone to leaks than the factory-terminated pipework in air-to-water heat pumps?
It does not appear so. Sometimes you can get leaks, but these are relatively uncommon when the work is done by people who know what they are doing.
If someone has both an air-to-water heat pump for heating and hot water, and an air-to-air heat pump for air conditioning, what are the pros and cons of using either or both systems for heating?
I think they should be used together to help lower the flow temperature for the air-to-water heat pump, but the controls for this are not really there yet.
Are there implications for right-sizing an air-to-water heat pump if there is also an air-to-air heat pump available for supplementary heating?
You could undersize your air-to-water heat pump. My main idea was that you could avoid radiator upgrades. For example, if you are marginal on radiator output with an air-to-water heat pump, you could use air-to-air in some rooms to supplement the heat.
There are not good controls for doing this at the moment, so it is something you would have to figure out.