Yes, my inverter states that it has a range (battery) of 100V - 550V so I thought about using a 48s configuration.
Apart from the electrical considerations above - the implemented DIY software permits me to configure the 48s?
Regarding the (potentially included) new current monitor - that goes up to the max voltage of 85V because of the INA chip. Is there also a work around?
Best,
Dominic
Well, two possibilities, (a) use the INA228/229 as a simple current monitor / charge counter, and get the voltage from something else; in this case you can use an INA219 instead, which is somewhat cheaper (and has far better availability). Itās not pin compatible with the '229 though.
(b) connect the INA to a <85V subset of the cells. If your shunt is on the high side, put your controllerās ground 20 cells below that; if the shunt is on the low side, vice versa. This is going to be somewhat inaccurate because thereās zero guarantee that the cells not covered by this have the same voltage as the ones that are, so your voltage and energy results are going to be somewhat inaccurate.
NB if you do (b) this on the high side you definitely need an isolated connection to the controller. Youāll get a nasty surprise otherwise.
Sorry ā¦didnāt want to sound dismissive.
I do appreciate that people care.
Stuartās and Danās suggestion are of course an option - maybe not very cost effective if one owns a 3P-hybrid already though.
I am used to much higher voltages professionally and was interested in seeing what the maker of the diyBMS system would consider his electronics design can take. I am aware of the huge power such a battery pack can release if handled incorrectly.
Were my earlier statements regarding the 32s incorrect?
Thereās also Victron, you can connect three 5000/48 charger/inverters and one 48V battery (18 cells also work) to a three-phase system. That way you also gain off-grid-ability.
That being said, yes voltages (much) higher than 48V are (much) more dangerous, and yes DC is more dangerous than AC, but some people actually know what to do (and what not to do!) around those systems.
ā¦ and directly connecting the cell board on top of the stack to the controller on its bottom is firmly on the ānot to doā side.
On the āto doā side, for instance, I strongly recommend two relays, one at the top and one at the bottom of the stack, with an emergency stop button that turns off both. Besides the obvious safety issue, this enables you to make damn sure that both are disconnected before you even think of starting work on any part of the battery.
Had a look into your suggestion - many thanks!
I guess you are referring to the Sun-12K-SG04LP3-EU series?
May I ask if your response was the result of a quick google search or an implicit recommendation?
I understand that this forum is not a buyers guide, but I am asking because my Growatt 10K 3-phase system is working nicely apart from the fact that it requires a higher battery voltage and investing into a new system needs some consideration.
I have seen that it also āemulates Pylontechā - do you or somebody else in this forum have experience if this works āhiccup freeā with the diyBMS system?
Highly appreciate any sharing of information as I would love to use diyBMS but also do not want to dig a hole and fall into it subsequently.
there are some users in our german pv forum who have this inverter, as far as i know they run very well. but i cant say if it is communicating well with the diy bms because nobody of them use this bms.
in theory it should run. stuart is also communicating with his inverter via pylontech canbus.
the 12kw deye has a idle consumtion of 90w if this is important for you, this 90w adds to your consumption 24h/7.
Many thanks for your feedback - much appreciated!
Unfortunately, single phase is not an option regarding the requirements and the existing distribution and cabling.
May I ask where the 90W idle power value comes from? Canāt find this in any Deye specs sheet. Is this from the experience of the German users you mentioned? Surely - wasting energy - especially in idle - is not in anybodyās interest. I think we are all here to achieve the opposite. On the other hand, what does idle in case of an hybrid inverter truly mean? Ideally it is generating power during the day and delivers power through its batteries at night (at least for some hours). So not long in a true idle state.
Without a battery, my current inverter switches down to just a few W when voltages are longer below the min required. When running, it takes a minimum of 105W for itself regarding my own measurements. so 90 W would be at least in a similar ballpark.
so this is then the idle(or on) consumption of your inverter.
i have a sma sunny island single phase, this one has 25w idle (or on) consumption it ads to my consumption on top, i have measured this.
maybe this is diffrent if no battery is connected, idont know. dont have a grid connection, i am offgrid.
Hello @stuart,
The configuration values (The multiplier to calculate the offset between the measured value and displayed value) was not lost. I could get it back from the Web GUI.
As per your comment, I reflashed the module and now itās working fine. I will see if it happens again and will let you know.
Appreciate your quick response and support.
Thanka a lot.
WeĀ“re facing the issue of not being able to manually entering the right value of the Calibration multiplier.
Issue description:
IĀ“ve got a cell that is not willing to accept it`s manually measured voltage.
IĀ“m entering e.g 3.292 Voltage into the Calculater ā Press Calcutlate
And than IĀ“m ending up with a value higher than 5,0000 in the Calibration Multiplier.
So logically the BMS is not accepting the value.
Alltogether I canĀ“t change one specifiy value set of the batterie.
Tries without outcome:
Changed the modules 3 times
Changed the modules before and after the issue module
Latest software is installed (todays release!)
Reseted everything several times
I got really badly stuck and please ask for ideas to solve that issue.